Pintuck stitching is a stitch that creates small, raised ridges, or “tucks,” on fabric by stitching parallel lines, typically using a twin needle.
I remember the first time I tried it, honestly, I was just playing around with a twin needle and didn’t expect much. But once those delicate, raised lines began to form. Seeing those, one of my students asked how to do pintuck stitch.
So I grabbed the sewing machine and said,
Pintuck
To create a pintuck stitch using a machine pintuck foot, insert a twin needle, set the stitch to straight, and guide your fabric through the grooves to achieve even, raised tucks.
She looked amazed but confused, so I decided to demonstrate it practically.
Table of Contents
What Is A Pintuck In Sewing?
A pintuck in sewing is a small, narrow fold of fabric that’s stitched in place to create a raised, decorative line. You’ll often see them in heirloom sewing, blouses, dresses, or even on home decor like pillow covers.
They’re especially beautiful on lightweight fabrics like voile, batiste, or fine cotton.
Can Every Machine Do A Pintuck Stitch?
No, not all sewing machines are built to handle pintuck stitching perfectly. While many modern machines offer decorative stitches, creating pintucks requires a bit more precision and the right setup.
Most sewing machines cannot create pintuck stitches because they lack twin needle support and a pintuck foot, both of which are necessary for evenly spaced, raised tucks.
So, if you want to do a pin tuck stitch on your regular sewing machine, you need a pressure foot.
Pintuck Sewing Foot
I’ve found that feet with fewer grooves, such as the 3-groove foot, are best suited for the pintuck stitch. It is perfect for heavier fabrics. I usually pair that with a 4mm twin needle when I want bolder, wider tucks.
On the other hand, when I’m working with lighter fabrics like voile or lawn,
I always reach for the 7- or 9-groove foot. This helps me with surface embroidery as well. These let me create narrow, delicate tucks using a 1.6mm twin needle, and the detail looks so refined.
The grooves keep everything lined up neatly, which makes the sewing process smoother and the results more polished.
How To Sew Pintucks With Twin Needle?
To do pintucks stitch, follow the steps below:
Set Up The Pintuck Pressure Foot
First, I make sure my sewing machine is turned off, safety first! Then, I remove the regular presser foot by releasing the foot holder or pressing the foot release lever.
Once I’ve selected the right foot, I carefully align it under the presser foot holder, making sure the grooves line up properly with where the needle will pass.
Then I secure it by tightening the screw or clicking it into place.
Finally, I check that the foot sits flat and stable, because an uneven or loose foot can cause uneven tucks or skipped stitches. Now, I’m ready to insert the twin needle and start stitching.
Select The Twin Needle Stitch For The Pintuck Stitch
For pintucks, the twin needle size matters way more than people think. The distance between the two needles determines not only the look but also the width of your tuck. I sometimes use it to fill stitches, too.
But how well the fabric will pinch and fold. I usually use a 1.6mm or 2.0mm twin needle for finer tucks and lightweight fabrics, and increase to 4.0mm when working on medium-weight cotton or heavier blends.
But if you differ on the foot you choose, for example,
So choose according to your pressure foot.
Cut Your Fabric Oversized
If your pintucks are going from one seam to another (like across a bodice front), it’s better to start with a piece of fabric larger than your pattern piece. I always cut a bit bigger than needed. For example,
If your pattern front is 10″ wide and you want 6 pintucks, each taking about 1/4″:
- 6 tucks × 1/4″ = 1.5″
- Add 1″ (0.5″ on each side) seam allowance
- Cut fabric: 10″ + 1.5″ + 1″ = 12.5″ wide
So, you’d cut your fabric about 12.5″ wide instead of just 10″. For height, add about 1″ extra, just to give yourself wiggle room and trimming accuracy after pressing.
Press and Fold to Find Centre
After giving the fabric a good press (because, yes, wrinkles mess things up), I fold it in half to find the centre.
This is where I start my pintucks right in the middle. And then I work my way outward for an even, balanced look like outline quilting.
Mark Your Pintuck Lines
You can mark guidelines using a water-soluble pen if you prefer to have a guide. I usually mark light lines, especially for evenly spaced tucks.
I typically 4″ to 8″ on bodices or cuffs for the pin tuck stitch. For full-length pintucks on skirts or tunics, consider lengths of 10″ to 14″ or longer.
I usually start from the centre and work outward, adjusting the length based on the pattern section.
Set Your Machine to Straight Stitch
Now set your machine to a straight stitch (no zigzag!). I usually shorten my stitch length to around 2.0–2.5mm for tighter, cleaner tucks. You can also try increasing your upper thread tension slightly.
This helps the fabric lift up nicely between the twin needles to form that raised tuck.
Sew Your Pintucks
Just stitch straight along your marked (or imagined) lines. The zigzag bobbin tension underneath naturally pulls the fabric upward, creating that signature raised pintuck line.
I usually start from the centre and work my way outward, spacing the tucks evenly using the grooves on my pintuck foot as a guide. You can even curve or angle your tucks if your design calls for it.
And that’s it, your pintuck is done.
Pintuck Stitch Pattern
If you wanna try something more different and eye catchy then try this out.
Pintuck Stitch By Sewing Machine Youtube
sew pintucks using a twin needle | super easy!
Frequently Asked Questions
Why are my pintucks not raised?
If your pintucks look flat, try tightening the top tension slightly and increasing the stitch length. Also, ensure your fabric is lightweight enough to be pinched up into a tuck.
What needle size and spacing is best?
For fine pintucks, use a 1.6 mm–2.0 mm twin needle. Heavier or wider tucks pair better with 3.0 mm–4.0 mm spacing.
Do I need to backstitch pintucks?
Nope, you don’t have to. Instead, pull the threads to the back and tie a small knot to keep it clean and professional.
Final Thought
That’s how I do the pintuck stitch with a sewing machine.
Now it’s your turn.
Do it & share with us. We would love to see your work.
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