How To Do A Blind Hem Stitch On A Sewing Machine?

I still remember the first time I tried to hem a pair of trousers by hand. I poked my fingers more than I stitched the fabric.

And after all that effort?

The stitches were obvious. That’s when I came to know something called a blind stitch machine. When I got to know something, I had to try it. So here is how it went,

Machine Blind Stitch

To do a blind hem stitch on a sewing machine, fold the fabric correctly, use the blind hem foot, select the blind hem stitch setting, and sew slowly so only the tiny “bites” catch the fabric fold.

Curious how it works or if it’s worth it for your setup? Let’s unravel it together.

Table of Contents

A blind stitch machine creates nearly invisible hems, most commonly on garments like trousers, skirts, curtains, or formalwear.

It sews a stitch that catches just a tiny bit of the fabric on the front side. It makes the thread barely visible (if at all) from the outside. You can do ladder stitch on sewing machine with this stitch.

A blind hem stitch on a sewing machine looks like a zigzag pattern, but with a slight shift so that only a tiny bit of the fabric is caught on the front side, while most of the stitching is hidden on the back.

It’s used for hemming pants or skirts without visible stitches on the front. It’s pretty neat and gives a clean, almost invisible finish! You can use it like a baste stitch sewing machine, too.

What Does A Blind Hem Stitch Look Like On A Sewing Machine

I set up my machine, and here is how it went down with the Juki blind stitch machine.

How To Do A Blind Hem Stitch On A Sewing Machine

Trim & Finish the Raw Edge

Let’s start by trimming the raw edge of your fabric to keep it tidy. If it’s already clean, great. Use an overlocker to finish the edge.

If you don’t have an overlocker, use a zigzag stitch along the edge. Press the edge flat with an iron so you won’t sew into a puffy mess later. . Otherwise, it will create a skip stitch.

Why?

A finished edge keeps the hem from fraying and helps it fold better.

Fold & Press

Now, fold up the hem toward the wrong side of the fabric by about 3.5–4 cm (that’s around 1.5 inches). This is even helpful for gathering stitches.

Measure using a ruler or seam gauge. Press this fold with an iron to create a nice crease. This folded section is the final hem that will stay in place with the blind stitch.

Pin the Hem in Place

Using straight pins, pin the hem in place:

Insert the pins at a slight angle or perpendicular to the edge.
Make sure the pins go through both layers of fabric.

This is the part that makes or breaks the stitch. We’re about to do the famous blind hem flip:

With the fabric still wrong side facing up, fold the hem back under the garment, so just the edge of the hem is peeking out—about 0.5 to 1 cm.
What you should see now is:
- The bulk of the garment lies flat
- The folded hem edge sticking out underneath

Most sewing machines come with one, but it might look a little different depending on your brand, like a chain stitch sewing machine.

For example,

If you’re using a Pfaff, you might already have a foot with that built-in sliding guide, which is super helpful. And if you’re on a Juki, Janome, or Singer, chances are your foot will look a bit different, but the function is still the same. Look for that little center guide. That’s what helps the magic happen.

So, now I grab the foot that came with your machine or buy one compatible with your brand. They usually have a centre guide to keep the fold aligned.

Snap the foot into place.
If your machine has a free arm, remove the accessory tray.

This allows you to slide in pant legs or sleeves easily. This won’t be necessary if you have a Portable Blind Stitch Machine.

Select the Right Stitch

Now let’s find the blind hem stitch on your machine. It usually looks like this on the stitch selector:

_|_ |_| |_| ⟷
→ Several straight stitches, then a single zigzag

Set your stitch:

Stitch length: Try 2.5 to 3.5 (longer = more spaced out)
Stitch width: Adjust to control how far the zigzag bites into the fold

Position the Fabric Under the Foot

Now that your hem is flipped and the machine’s ready:

Slide your fabric under the foot, fold side butted right against the center guide.
Lower the presser foot.
Turn the handwheel to drop the needle manually into the fabric.

But, make sure the straight or running stitches land on the hem edge. The zigzag just barely bites into the fold (a thread or two, not a chunk).

This is the secret.

Too much bite? You’ll see the stitch on the outside. Too little? It won’t hold.

Start Sewing

Now the fun part!

Start sewing without a backstitch. You don’t want those securing stitches to show.
Go slow. Let the guide do its job, keeping the folded edge aligned.
Remove pins as you go (don’t sew over them!).

Keep your hands steady, and avoid shifting or tugging the fabric too much. The more stable you are, the straighter your hem will be.

Overlap & Finish

Once you’ve sewn all the way around:

Slightly overlap the beginning of your stitch by an inch or so.
Stop, lift the needle, and pull out the fabric.
Cut your threads.

No backstitching needed here either. And you are done.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a blind stitch machine worth it?

If you do a lot of hemming for garments, especially dress pants, skirts, or drapes, then yes—it’s totally worth it. It saves time, gives a professional invisible finish, and is easier than doing blind hems by hand or with a regular machine.

Which type of needle is used for a blind stitch machine?

Blind stitch machines usually use curved needles (like LWx5T or LWx6T) because of their unique sideways stitch motion. Check your machine’s manual though, since needle types can vary by brand and model.

Now step back and admire your work. If you matched your thread, the hem should look invisible from the front—clean, sleek.

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