One SewingInspo student came to me with a stretchy knit fabric, frustration written all over her face. She had tried every straight stretch stitch on her machine—triple stitch, lightning bolt, you name it. But none of them held up without puckering or snapping under tension.
So I asked, “Have you tried a twin needle stitch?”
She looked surprised and said, “What’s that?”
Twin Needle!
A twin-needle stitch is a sewing technique that uses a double needle to create two parallel lines of straight stitching on the top side and a zigzag stitch on the underside.
The uncertainty was shown on her face. So I decided to give her the details of the twin needle stitch patterns.
Table of Contents
What Is A Twin Needle Stitch?
A twin needle is two needles joined by a single shank at the top, so it fits into your sewing machine just like a regular needle. It’s sometimes also referred to as a double needle stitch.
And,
The space between the two needles is called the needle gauge. It usually ranges from 1.6mm to 6mm, depending on the type of sewing you’re doing. For example, a narrower gap, like 2mm and a smaller spacing, like 4mm or 6mm is available.
What does the stitch look like? Well,
You will see two perfectly straight, parallel lines on the front of your fabric. Now flip it over, and you’ll find a stretchy zigzag on the back that lets the seam flex without breaking.
Types Of Twin Needle
You can find many types on the market. Each fabric requires a different type of needle to create a perfect stitch. Some fabrics require extra-sharp or extra-thick needles. So you gotta know which one you need. But there 6 most common types of twin-needle
- Universal Twin Needle
- Stretch Twin Needle
- Denim Twin Needle
- Embroidery Twin Needle
- Ballpoint Twin Needle
- Twin Needle for Metallic Thread
Among all those, I like to use a universal twin-needle. Cause it’s perfect for hemming around stretch fabric.
Twin Needle Sizes
Twin needle sizes are based on two key numbers:
- The distance between the needles (measured in millimeters), and
- The needle size (which refers to the thickness of each needle blade).
Common needle spacing includes:
1.6mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm, 3.0mm, 4.0mm, and 6.0mm—the wider the gap, the more noticeable the stitching effect.
The twin-needle size like 75, 80, 90, or 100 tells you how thick the needles are:
- 75 is fine and best for lightweight fabrics
- 90 or 100 are thicker and better suited for heavier or more durable materials
So, for example:
A 4.0/75 twins needle has 4mm spacing between the needles and uses two size 75 blades.
However, don’t just jump in and buy the size I just mentioned. The size you need also depends on your fabric. Here is an example of what size needle you might need for fabric.
| Fabric Type | Recommended Needle Spacing | Needle Type |
| Lightweight fabrics | 1.6mm or 2.0mm | Universal |
| Medium-weight fabrics | 2.5mm or 3.0mm | Universal or Stretch |
| Heavyweight fabrics | 4.0mm or 6.0mm | Denim or Heavy-Duty |
| Knit/stretch fabrics | Varies (commonly 2.5–4.0mm) | Stretch or Ballpoint |
How to Use a Twin Needle Stitch on a Regular Sewing Machine?
After giving her all the instructions on the needle, I showed her the twin’s needle stitch work. So I grab the machine, needle and start sewing.
To do a twins needle stitch, you need to follow the 3 steps,
Swap Out the Needle
I’m changing out the regular needle and replacing it with a twin (double) needle. I just loosen the little screw like I usually would, pull the old needle out, then slide in the twin-needle with the flat side of the shank facing the back.
Once it’s in place, I tighten up the screw—and that’s done! Easy.
Thread The First Needle: How To Thread A Twin Needle
To thread a twin needle, I use two spools—one on the main pin. And if there’s no second spool pin, I simply use the bobbin winder. I thread both threads the usual way, one at a time, to avoid tangles.
At the last guide above the needle, I put one thread in front, one behind, then threaded each needle. And that’s it—ready to sew!
Select Twin Needle Stitch Settings
I set my machine to a straight stitch (or the twin needle setting, if available), or the Elastic stitch setting, if it has one. I usually bump up the stitch length to around 3–3.5mm and tweak the tension if needed to avoid tunnelling or loose threads.
I always do a quick test run on scrap fabric first—just to make sure everything looks clean before sewing on the real piece.
Sew from the Right Side
I make sure I’m sewing from the right side (the outside) of the fabric. That’s where the pretty double line will show.
Since the zigzag underside isn’t meant to be seen, I always press my hem under first, and then stitch on the outside to get that clean, pro finish.
If you are confused, then watch this video How to Use a Double Needle or Twin Needle on a Regular Sewing Machine
Twin Needle Sewing Problems
I’m talking about it as if I’m a pro on it, and the whole stitching will go smoothly; then you’re wrong. I also get into some trouble while sewing. The most common issue I face,
- One or both needles aren’t catching the bobbin thread. It happened because of the wrong needle type, or the fabric is too stretchy.
- The fabric lifts up like a gathering stitch between the stitches, forming a small tunnel. Cause Tension is too high.
- One or both top threads snap mid-seam because the Tension’s too tight or the thread isn’t feeding smoothly.
- The fabric looks stretched out and wonky after stitching. Too much pressure or pulling the fabric as you sew.
Sounds frustrating, right? I know, but no worries, there are ways to solve it. Here is what I did.
- Use a twin stretch needle for knits.
- Lower the top thread tension slightly.
- Use spray starch or stabilizer under delicate knits.
- Check your thread path—make sure both threads are correctly seated in the tension disks.
- Use two separate thread spools (not one split spool).
- Let the feed dogs do the work—don’t push or pull.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why use a double needle?
A double needle lets you sew two parallel lines of straight stitching on the top of your fabric while the bobbin thread creates a zigzag underneath. It gives your projects a professional, store-bought finish
When should I use a twin stretch needle?
Use a twin stretch needle when you’re sewing knit or stretchy fabrics like jersey, spandex, rib knit, or activewear. It’s specially designed with a rounded tip and extra flex to glide through stretchy materials without skipping stitches or damaging the fabric.
Final Thoughts
And that’s it! The twin needle stitch might look a little intimidating, but once you try it, you’ll see that it’s beginner-friendly.
I hope this walkthrough made things easier—and that you’ll give it a try on your next knit project. Once you see those beautiful parallel lines, you’ll be hooked.
Let me know if you want to troubleshoot skipped stitches or puckering—I’ve got tips for that too!
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