Different Types Of Stitching On Sewing Machine With Picture

When I switched to machine stitch, I thought there weren’t many options to explore. What & how can a machine let me do embroidery like hand stitch, right? But well………. I’m wrong.

There are actually 29+ types of stitching on a sewing machine. Yes, you heard it right. You must have heard the common ones like backstitch or zigzag. But there are more varieties than that, also.

My favorite type of machine stitch are,

Sewing Machine Stitches And Their Uses

Sewing machines typically come with a variety of different stitches, each serving a specific purpose. For intense,

Beyond that, 

If you want something stronger, there are overlock (for cleaning up edges), decorative stitches. Once you know what they all do, it really opens up what you can make!

29 Types Of Stitching On Sewing Machine With Pictures

There are 29 types of machine stitches, as in,

Now let’s get to know types of stitches sewing machine with pictures.

A running stitch sewing machine is a machine that sews in a straight line, and that’s it. It’s super simple. This is the most common types of stitches on singer sewing machine.

The stitch length is usually adjustable, too. Most machines let you set it anywhere from 0mm to around 5 or 6mm.

For everyday sewing,

I usually stick to 2.5mm. It’s a solid, standard length. However, if I’m working with thicker fabric or doing basting, I’ll lengthen it slightly. It’s one of those foundational stitches you’ll use all the time.

The fun thing is you can use this stitch everywhere.

The zigzag stitch is unlike the straight stitch, it moves side to side in a zigzag pattern, which gives your seams a bit of flexibility. The zig zag pattern makes it perfect for sewing knit fabrics, elastic, or even just finishing raw edges when you don’t have a serger.

And trust me, it is very handy stitches I use all the time, especially when I’m working with fabrics that stretch or fray easily. These are common types of stitches on brother sewing machine.

I like to shorten it for tighter stitches and lengthen it when I want the zigzag to look more open or decorative. There are 3 types of zigzag stitch sewing machine, too depending on the length for example,

1. Regular Zigzag Stitch
2. 3-Step Zigzag
3. Satin Stitch

The blind hem stitch is one of those stitches I reach for when I want a clean, professional finish, without the stitching showing on the outside.  It works by sewing a row of straight stitches on the hem allowance, with small zigzag “bites” that barely catch the outer fabric. That’s where they got the blind stitch sewing machine name.

On most machines, some even have stitch options for wovens and knits. I usually set the stitch length to 2–3 for machine blind stitch. However, you can adjust it according to the fabric. Once you get the fold right, it’s quick, clean, and looks professional.

A buttonhole stitch on a sewing machine is a tight zigzag stitch that supports and finishes the edges of buttonholes. It keeps them neat and prevents fraying.

There are a couple of styles depending on your machine:

1. 1 Step Buttonhole Sewing Machines
2. 4 Step Buttonhole
3. Keyhole Buttonhole Sewing Machine

The stitch length is usually extremely short, typically between 0 and 1, and sometimes even slightly negative, depending on your machine. That’s because you want a dense satin stitch that really locks down the edges of the buttonhole so it won’t fray or stretch out.

The backstitch sewing machine is one of those simple but super important stitches I use all the time. It’s essentially what you do to secure your stitches in place at the beginning and end of a seam, preventing anything from unravelling.

It’s quick and easy. But you need it to secure each and every stitch.

The overcast stitch is the stitch that wraps around the edge of the fabric, securing it so it won’t unravel over time. I usually use it on woven fabrics or anything that tends to fray easily, especially if I don’t have a serger handy.

It’s a quick and easy way to give your seams a clean, professional finish without any fancy equipment. You just need to find the overcast stitch symbol and start doing it.

The overlock stitch is a stitch that wraps around the edge of the fabric, similar to what you’d see on store-bought clothes. It is also a serger stitch.

When it comes to settings,

If I’m working with something heavier or lighter, I simply adjust it slightly using the dial or the setting control. It’s one of those stitches that instantly makes your project look way more polished.

There are even other kinds of overlock stitches, too, for example,

1. 4-thread
2. 3-thread
3. 2-thread overlock stitches

If you can’t find any of that on your sewing machine, then do a mock overlock stitch. It’s like mimicking the overlock. It’s better than nothing, right?

The lightning stitch is a special version of the zigzag stitch, but instead of sharp angles, it forms a soft, zigzag line that resembles a lightning bolt.

Most machines that have stretch stitches will include the lightning stitch sewing machine.

I usually set the stitch length around 2.5 to 3 mm, but I’ll adjust it depending on how stretchy the fabric is. Once I discovered this stitch, it totally changed how I approached sewing with knits. No more broken threads! 

The feather stitch is composed of small, crisscrossing stitches that branch out like feathers. I love using it when I want to add a bit of flair to something simple, like a baby blanket, a table runner, or the edge of a quilt block.

It’s not a structural stitch, so I don’t use it for seams. But it’s perfect for embellishment, crazy quilting, or even joining two pieces of fabric with a decorative touch in between.

The honeycomb stitch resembles a stretched-out zigzag with double lines, giving it a honeycomb-like appearance. It’s one of those decorative stitches that looks just as cool as it sounds. It creates a pattern that literally looks like a row of tiny honeycombs.

It’s not a stitch I use every day, but when I want something fun and eye-catching. However, it’s somewhat challenging to track. So, practice it as much as possible.

The darning sewing machine is a built-in fix-it tool on your sewing machine. It works by creating a tight back-and-forth stitch that fills in the damaged area, like weaving a mini patch directly into the fabric.

And about the length,

That way, I can create a little woven patch by guiding the fabric back and forth under the needle. The darning looks and feels smoother than hand-knit one.

The box stitch is a sturdy stitch that’s often used to support stress points, such as the corners of tote bag handles, belts, or straps.

Now, not every sewing machine has a pre-programmed box stitch, especially basic or older models. However, the good news is that you can still do it manually with just a straight stitch.

Here is how how box stitch sewing machine works,

So, if your machine doesn’t have this built-in, don’t get sad. Just do 2 x stitch and you are done. It’s one of those simple tricks that instantly makes your sewing feel a bit more pro.

The pick stitch creates tiny, evenly spaced stitches on the outside of the fabric, with longer ones hidden on the inside.

It’s extremely popular for tasks such as hemming formal wear, tailoring jackets, or even adding a subtle design element along seams. I like it because it gives a clean, professional look without being overly attention-seeking.

The catch stitch is one of those stitches I reach for when I want to secure a hem but still keep it a little flexible and almost invisible from the outside. It’s a hand stitch that forms little crisscrosses (like Xs) across the back of the fabric, catching just a few threads of the outer layer.

You need a special machine to do it, actually. If no special catch stitch sewing machine, then no catch stitch.

A pad stitching machine is one of those old-school tailoring techniques that focuses on structure and shape. It’s done by hand and is mainly used to attach layers of interfacing to fabric, especially in items such as jacket lapels, collars, or tailored bodices.

What makes it special is how the tiny diagonal stitches are sewn in a brick-like pattern, letting you shape the fabric as you go.

It takes more time than regular stitching. But if you’re diving into more advanced garment sewing or classic tailoring, pad stitching is your secret weapon.

It gives structure, support, and that lovely handmade feel that’s built to last.

The saddle stitch is a technique known for its exceptional strength and durability. You’ll mostly see it in leatherwork, such as wallets, belts, bags, or any project that requires seams to last forever.

Unlike machine stitches, the saddle stitching machine employs two needles and a single thread. You pass each needle through the same hole from opposite sides, like a crisscross.

It does take a little time and patience (especially punching the holes evenly), but the result is a clean, professional-looking stitch that’s built to last. I like using it when I’m making something special by hand and want that handmade, yet perfect, finish.

The tack down stitch is one of those short and sweet stitches I use when I need to hold something in place temporarily or support a small area. It’s a series of tight, repeated stitches in one place, like a mini knot made by the sewing machine.

It’s small, quick, and super strong, like the little bodyguard of your seams. There are even some versions of machine tack stitch,

1. Diagonal Basting
2. Bar Tack
3. Nap Tack Stitch

The blanket stitch is a straight stitch along the edge of your fabric with a little side stitch that dips into the fabric, kind of like an “L” shape. The sewing machine blanket stitch symbol also looks the same.

When I use the machine version, I usually pair it with a stabiliser. And I slow down the speed a bit so I can keep things lined up nicely along the edge.

The stretch stitch looks like a regular straight stitch, but it’s specially designed for stretchy fabrics. It’s made up of tiny back-and-forth motions that let the seam stretch along with the fabric. The stretch stitch symbol may look like lightning.

There are even some different versions of stretch stitch. For intense,

1. Straight Stretch Stitch 
2. Elastic Stitch Sewing Machine
3. Triple Straight Stitch
4. Twin Needle Stitch

It sews a little slower since it’s reinforcing each stitch as it goes, but that extra strength is so worth it. Honestly, once I found this stitch, it became my secret weapon for stretchy fabrics.

The chain stitch is a small, chain-shaped stitch that runs along your fabric. It’s known for its flexibility and strength. Chain stitch machine is great for decorative stitching, basting, or even seams that require a bit of give, such as those on stretchy or heavy fabrics.

Now here’s the thing,

So, if your machine doesn’t have it built-in, no worries, you’ve still got other great stitches to play with. However, if you do manage to get your hands on a machine that performs real chain stitching, it opens up a whole new world of fun and flexibility.

The ladder stitch is one of those stitches that’s when you want to close something up invisibly, like the final seam on a pillow, plush toy, or hand-finished hem.

What’s notable is that once you pull the thread tight, the stitches disappear into the seam, resulting in a remarkably clean finish with no visible stitching on the outside. I use it a lot for closing up openings after turning something right side out.

So if you’re working on softies, home décor, or hand-finishing details, the ladder stitch is definitely one to keep in your sewing toolkit.

The fill stitch is creates a solid block of stitching, kind of like colouring in a shape with thread, and it gives your designs a rich, dimensional look.

Some are super smooth, while others look more textured, depending on the density and direction of the stitches. I usually adjust the stitch angle and spacing according to the fabric I’m working with and the desired look. 

Cutwork is a combination of embroidery and fabric cutting, yes, scissors are involved! This technique decorates fabric by stitching around a design and then carefully cutting out certain areas to create open spaces, much like lace

Just make sure you’re using sharp embroidery scissors. And take your time with the cutting! The stitch stabilises the edges, so your fabric won’t fray after it’s trimmed.

Surface embroidery is a broad term that encompasses any type of embroidery where the stitches are worked on the top surface of the fabric, rather than pulled through to both sides, as in counted cross-stitch. It includes stitches like

You just draw or trace your design on the fabric, and then stitch over it using any number of embroidery techniques.

The tatami stitch (also called celtic fill or celtic stitch) is a type of fill stitch used in machine embroidery. It’s akin to a fancy cousin of the basic fill stitch.

Still, instead of smooth, uniform rows, tatami stitching employs alternating stitch directions to create a woven or textured effect, much like a traditional Japanese tatami mat—hence the name.

And since the stitch paths change angles, it reflects light in different directions, which adds depth and dimension.

Underlay stitches are kind of the behind-the-scenes heroes in embroidery. You don’t usually see them when the design is finished. But they play a huge role in how it turns out.

They are the foundation for your embroidery stitches that go down first to stabilize the fabric, reduce puckering, and help the top stitches sit nice and flat. There are different types, like 

They all work depending on the shape and size of the area you’re stitching. For example, if you’re working with a lightweight fabric, underlay stitches can keep it from shifting or stretching when the dense satin stitches go on top.

Now, most embroidery machines automatically add underlay stitches, but you can usually adjust the type or density in your design software. If you’re digitising your own design, don’t skip this step. It makes a huge difference in the final look.

Outline quilting (or stitch-in-the-ditch) is one of the main stitches in quilting techniques when I want to keep things simple and clean. It’s essentially when you stitch around the shapes or seams in your quilt, such as tracing the edges of your blocks or appliqué pieces to make the design stand out without overpowering it.

And I like to keep the stitch length around 2.5mm—long enough to show up but still subtle. That’s it!

Stippling is like doodling with your sewing machine and I love it! It’s a type of free-motion quilting where you stitch a meandering, random pattern of curves and loops that never cross over themselves.

So if you’re looking to add some soft, all-over texture to your quilt without worrying about perfect patterns, stippling is your best friend!

The scallop stitch is one of those stitches that instantly makes your sewing look fancy without too much effort. The scallop sewing machine creates a row of semi-circular “waves” or scallops, which can be used for decorative edges on hems, sleeves, collars, table linens—you name it.

There are a few versions of it, too, as in,

1. herringbone stitch
2. Chevron Stitch
3. heirloom sewing by machine
4. Smocking Stitch

Some machines even allow you to adjust the width and length of the scallops. I like to experiment with the settings on scrap fabric first to achieve the perfect look for whatever I’m working on.

Types Of Sewing Machine Stitches Pdf Free Download

Frequently asked questions

Conclusion

No matter what project you’re working on, understanding your sewing machine stitches makes all the difference. From the basic straight stitch to decorative and specialty options, each one has its place.

Once you understand what each stitch does best, sewing becomes a lot more enjoyable and less frustrating. So, which type of stitching on a sewing machine is your favourite?