Tailor’s Buttonhole Stitch Is Every Sewist’s Secret Weapon| Here Is How To Do It

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Tailor buttonhole stitch is basically a reverse version of the buttonhole stitch on edge. It has some extra knots at the edge of the stitch. But no! Don’t mix it up with a knotted buttonhole. They sound the same, but they aren’t.

The knotted buttonhole stitch has a knot on its ‘leg’, but the tailor buttonhole stitch has a knot on its edge.

When I first heard about it, I thought it was a temporary stitch because it reminded me of a tailor’s tack.

But that’s not the case. It’s not temporary. The tailor’s buttonhole stitch is used for decoration and a strong, secure edge. Sounds interesting, right? So, I thought of trying it.

Tailor’s Buttonhole

To do a tailor’s buttonhole stitch by hand, work a series of tight blanket stitches along the buttonhole’s edge, looping the thread under each stitch for a durable, neat finish.

That’s the basic, but I like to add a fun twist, 😜 so I tried  Double Tailor’s Buttonhole Stitch. Want to know how? Let’s begin the Tailor’s buttonhole stitch edging.

Facts:

  1. Tailor buttonhole stitch has a knot at the edge.
  2. It isn’t any temporary stitch. It can be a perfect edging stitch.
  3. I give a little twist by making a double tailor’s buttonhole stitch.
Tailor's Buttonhole Stitch

Tailor’s Buttonhole Stitch Tutorial

I don’t like to tell you what others can do with this version of tailor stitch. So, let’s use the tailor’s buttonhole stitch but with some extra. I like to call it the double tailor’s buttonhole stitch.

Tailor's Buttonhole Stitch Tutorial

So, to do double tailor buttonhole stitch, you need to follow 5 steps-

  1. Lightly Draw The Outline Of Your Design
  2. Thread Your Needle With Gimp Thread
  3. Insert The Needle From The Back
  4. Insert The Needle Front Line & Push Back, And Wrap The Needle
  5. Do A Double Knot On The Edge

Lightly Draw The Outline Of Your Design

To start, take a gentle and easy-to-remove fabric marking tool, like a tailor’s chalk. Now, lightly sketch the outline of your design where you want the stitch to go. You can use this for all types of buttonhole stitches.

Lightly Draw The Outline Of Your Design

Don’t press too hard; just let the line be a faint guide. It’s all about giving yourself a roadmap without any heavy lines showing through later.

Take a moment to look at your work. Check if the design feels balanced and is placed exactly where you want it.

Thread Your Needle With Gimp Thread

To thread your needle with gimp thread. That’s where my twist comes alone. 😜 many stitchers like to use normal cotton thread for buttonhole stitch. But I like to use grimp thread. Why? Well,

Thread Your Needle With Gimp Thread

Gimp is a stiff cord that elevates stitches off the fabric surface, creating a smooth base for buttonhole stitches to rest on. This is perfect for all basic embroidery stitches. Silk buttonhole twist also comes in different weights. The thicker size F is easier to handle and requires fewer stitches.

gimp thread for buttonhole stitch

Or, if you want some, you can choose a buttonhole stitch of a specific size. Then- 

Buttonhole stitch gimps vary from 80/3 for Fine Gimp up to 40/3 and 30/3 for Thick Gimp. However, 48\0 Silk Gimp and 90/9 Thick Gimp are generally less suitable for buttonhole stitch because of their structure.

Thread Size For Tailor’s Buttonhole Stitch

But I would like to use a 40/3 grim thread for the tailor’s buttonhole stitch. It is perfect to do buttonhole stitch embroidery by hand.

Got your thread? Great, now trim the end of the gimp at a sharp angle to help it pass through the needle eye more easily.

Insert The Needle From The Back

Insert the needle from the back of the fabric from the lower line you drew. Then, bring it through to the front at the starting point of your design. This technique helps keep the knot hidden on the backside of the outer edges.

Insert The Needle From The Back

It ensures a clean and neat finish on the front side of your work. Starting from the back allows you to maintain a professional appearance while stitching.

Insert The Needle Front Line & Push Back, And Wrap The Needle

Insert the needle front line, but insist on pulling the thread down. Insert the needle only ⅓ inch into the fabric. Then, push it back in the upper line.

Wrap the thread around the top as you normally would, and then pull it through. It’s just like a detached buttonhole stitch.

Insert The Needle Front Line & Push Back, And Wrap The Needle

The key difference from the basic buttonhole stitch at this stage is that I won’t pull the thread tightly.

This will give the stitches a bit of give, creating a softer appearance. I’m just going to leave my thread loosely pulled for now. I will insert the needle through and then do the usual wrapping. 

Here’s the 2nd difference from a normal buttonhole stitch:

Instead of creating the stitch along the fabric line, I’m forming each stitch directly in the knot of the previous one.

This way, the stitches build on each other, creating a textured, continuous line.

Do A Double Knot On The Edge

That’s where my twist comes in. Normally, people leave it with one knot, but I do a double knot on the edge. It secures the stitch tightly and gives it an extra look. It makes them stand out like an open buttonhole stitch.

Do A Double Knot On The Edge

Again, I will insert my needle into that notch as I work on these stitches. Then, I’ll go through the normal process of wrapping the thread. 

When I pull it up, I won’t pull it super tight. After that, I’ll place the next stitch and build on that lovely design.

Finish Off Tailor’s Buttonhole Stitch 

To finish off the tailor’s buttonhole stitch, ensure your last stitch is snug but not too tight. Then, secure the thread by inserting the needle through the last stitch you made and pulling it through to create a little loop.

Finish Off Tailor's Buttonhole Stitch 

Before you pull it tight, pass the needle through that loop to form a knot.

After that, flip the fabric over and check the back to ensure your knots are secure and no loose vertical threads hang around. If there are any left, then leave them. 

This way, you’ll have a clean finish that looks great and holds up well! And that’s it—you’re done.

Tailor’s Buttonhole Stitch Patterns

I didn’t stop just after trying one, of course, 😎 I tried it in different patterns and ways. Here are a few of my examples the decorative stitch-

Tailor's Buttonhole Stitch Patterns

Frequently Asked Question

How Is The Tailor’s Buttonhole Stitch Different From A Regular Buttonhole Stitch?

The tailor’s buttonhole stitch typically involves creating stitches in the knots of previous stitches, giving it a layered appearance. This method adds texture and strength, while a regular buttonhole stitch is often applied directly to the fabric surface.

What Types Of Thread Can I Use For Tailor’s Buttonhole Stitch?

You can use a variety of threads, including gimp thread, silk buttonhole twist, or any strong, thick thread that can handle the tension and create a defined edge. Popular choices include Gutermann threads or specialized buttonhole threads.

Can I Use Tailor’s Buttonhole Stitch For Decorative Purposes?

Absolutely! The tailor’s buttonhole stitch is great for decorative applications. It can be used to create borders, floral motifs, geometric designs, and more, adding texture and visual interest to your projects.

That’s All

That’s how I like to do tailor’s buttonhole stitch.

Do you have any different or unique way to do this stitch?

If so, then feel free to reach out to sewinginspo. We loved to learn your technique.❤️🧵

Maisha Soumee

Maisha Soumee

Hi there! I’m Maisha Soumee, the proud torchbearer of our family’s sewing legacy and the driving force behind this website. With Grandma Manha’s teachings as my foundation, I’m honored to continue the tradition of craftsmanship and creativity. As a passionate seamstress, I’m dedicated to sharing the joy of sewing with you, our valued community.

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