I got a new shirt for my husband, but I noticed there was one button less. I got furious and wanted to return it. But my grandma stopped me and said I could easily put a button in it with a buttonhole stitch.
I asked how to hand sew a buttonhole stitch.
Grandma says-
Hand Sew A Buttonhole Stitch
To hand sew a buttonhole stitch, create a knot, bring the needle up through the fabric at the starting point, loop the thread around the needle, pull tight to form a secure knot, and repeat along the edge of the buttonhole, spacing the stitches evenly.
But that’s not the whole picture. There is more to the process. Follow along to get the real way of how to make a buttonhole hand stitch? However, the process differs for different types of buttonhole stitches. So, I’ll start with the basic one.
Table of Contents
How To Hand Sew A Buttonhole Stitch Without a Machine?
– To sew a buttonhole by hand, you need to follow 5 steps.
- Start Buttonhole Stitch
- Stitch The Entire Buttonhole
- Maintain The Size Of Buttonhole
- Continue Stitch
- End Buttonhole Stitch
-Thanks, Grandma. If you weren’t here, I would have returned the shirt. Now, tell me how to hand sew a buttonhole stitch in detail.
Start Buttonhole Stitch
Start the buttonhole stitch by using a short running stitch around the position where you make a buttonhole.
Don’t think this is like a back stitch which can be done with a single thread. You need to double thread it.
Grandma Tips: Sewing stitch thread your 11-size needle with doubled polyester thread; there is no need for knots. Secure your buttonhole stitch knitting with 2 little back stitches at the far end.
Stitch The Entire Buttonhole
Stitch the buttonhole with 8- or 11-size needle at 45 degrees from the top corner through the hole to the underside. Just like doing overcast stitch by hand.
Then, poke it out along the top edge at the mark you made. For each stitch, feed the needle into the hole and poke it out along the top again, just like before.
-What size needle do you use, grandma?
– I usually use 10 size needles 😁 10 size needles are perfect for hand stitched buttonhole.
But here’s the trick: loop the thread under the needle’s point before you pull through. This creates a purl stitch along the edge of the hole. Keep repeating this process all around the buttonhole. Remember, your hand position matters. Most people find it easiest to lay the work across the index or middle finger of their left hand. Try to keep the fabric edges flat and avoid crumpling it up in your palm. That way, you can perfectly do a Buttonhole stitch on an edge.
-Which finger do you use for buttonhole stitch?
-I like to stitch with my index finger! 🤘
Maintain The Size Of Buttonhole
As you stitch, ensure that the length of the thread lies under both the needle’s eye and point. Make it perfect like a tacking stitch by hand. This is important for creating neat buttonhole stitches.
The perfect size of the buttonhole stitch is 0.5 inches. So, make sure to maintain that. Ok?
Continue Stitch
Now, continue stitching around the hole, dropping the needle through and emerging just outside the foundation stitching. Mainly you need to do a hemming stitch around it. Pull the stitch firmly and smoothly away from you to keep the edge straight and firm, just like an overcast stitch by hand.
If you would do the stitch perfectly then the stitch would look like a blind stitch by hand. It won’t be visible on the right side of the fabric.
End Buttonhole Stitch
To end the buttonhole stitch, sew several 1/8-inch stitches back and forth. Then, continue around, creating purl stitches until you reach the other side. Make another bar tack on the opposite short end.
Finally, when you’re done going all the way around, tightly tuck your needle and thread under your stitching and bring your thread back to the wrong side to secure it on the finish garment. And that’s it—your buttonhole is finished.
See, you have a hand sew buttonhole, which is perfect for holding your buttons.
Hand Sewing Buttonholes Tutorial!
I have explained buttonhole stitch by hand in detail but even if you are still confused then, here is a visual guide of the buttonhole stitch-
Cut Button Hole For Buttonhole Stitch
The first thing is that you gotta cut the keyhole buttonhole by hand. There are a total 4 types of sewing stitch buttonholes. As in
- Standard
- Keyhole
- Round end
- Stretch
-Well, then, which one should I do? Should is go for vertical buttonholes?
-Standard holes for buttonhole stitch are best. 👌
–So, Grandma, I saw on Google that you can cut buttonholes in 2 ways.
- Before stitch
- After stitch
Which method should I use?
-See, it depends on personal preference. But I like to cut buttonholes before stitch.
-Ok, grandma! Then, how do I do the buttonhole foot?
-Start by marking where you want it on your fabric. It should be 20-25% longer than your button.
Here’s a grandma rule: your buttonhole should be about 1/8 inch (3 mm) bigger than your button. So, if you have a 1/2-inch button, you’ll want a 5/8-inch buttonhole (that’s about 1.25 cm for a 1.3-inch buttonhole).
For a 5/8-inch button, go for a 3/4-inch buttonhole (or roughly 1.6 cm button with a 1.9 cm buttonhole). If your button is 3/4 inches, go for a 7/8-inch buttonhole (or about 1.9 cm button with a 2.2 cm buttonhole).
-Oh, and I found a trick: If you have a big button, like 1 1/2 inches (3.8 cm), you might want to add 1/4 inch (6 mm) instead of just 1/8 inch (3 mm).😉
Now cut the buttonhole:
- Draw a line about the size of your button (around 5 inches), and stick pins at both ends of the buttonhole.
- Take your seam ripper and poke it through the fabric at one end of the buttonhole, starting from the outside and working your way towards the middle.
- Cut towards the center of the buttonhole between the stitches, making sure you go halfway.
- Do the same thing on the other side of the buttonhole, starting from the opposite end and cutting towards the center. This will be your starting point of hand sew buttonhole.
- Grab some small sharp scissors and tidy up any loose threads or frayed edges around the buttonhole. If you spot any fabric left, carefully snip it off up to the stitching at both ends.
That’s how to make a buttonhole by hand.
Best Thread For Hand Sewn Buttonholes?
The best thread type depends on your fabric. However, 100 percent cotton thread is usually best for button holes. Cotton thread has a bit of fluffiness, which helps fill in those buttonhole stitches nicely for great coverage.
So, instead of using a darning stitch thread for buttonhole stitch, choose the right one.
Note: Be aware of thread color cause it should be matched with your fabric.
But if you’re working with knits or wovens that have spandex, polyester thread is your go-to. It’s got a bit of stretch. So, your buttonholes can move along with the fabric without any trouble.
Grandma Trick: For buttonhole thread, look for something like a T-21 or T-27 spun thread or a T-24 corespun thread. They’ll do the job just right, giving you sturdy, reliable buttonholes every time.
-So, grandma, which thread do you use normally?
-However, I normally use a t-27 thread for my buttonhole stitch. which is also suitable for closed buttonhole stitch.
My Buttonhole Project:
I follow her guide and i start hand sewing buttonhole. And sewing several small stitches back and forth before neatly securing the thread, and ended up with the perfect buttonhole for my husband. I must admit that hand sewn buttonholes are perfect in all ways.
Hand Sewing Buttonholes Tutorial
I have explained buttonhole stitch by hand in detail but even if you are still confused then, here is a visual guide of the buttonhole stitch-
Frequently Asked Questions
What Stitch Is Best For Buttonhole?
The best stitch for a buttonhole is a long zigzag stitch. This is one with a length of 1mm on the sides. Make sure to stitch lightly for the bar tacks. After stitching, pull the cord tight and trim the ends. Then, carefully cut open the hole and trim the raw edges as close as you can to the stitches.
Which Basic Stitch Is Used In Buttonholes?
The Buttonhole Stitch looks a lot like the Blanket Stitch, but it’s done differently. It’s often used to reinforce the edges of horizontal buttonholes because it makes strong knots, keeping them secure. If you do a blanket stitch step by step, then you can secure it correctly.
Can You Hand Sew A Buttonhole?
Yes, hand-sewing a buttonhole is a bit different from using a machine. Instead of sewing first and then cutting, you actually cut the opening first and then stitch around it. It’s all about precision and being careful with each step. With some patience and attention to detail, you can make a great buttonhole by hand.
Final Thought
Clear about how to hand sew a buttonhole stitch? So, why don’t try your buttonhole stitch?
So, try it out on your husband broken button 😉and let me know if it works or not. If you have any questions about how to sew a buttonhole by hand then ask to contact sewinginspo the right way.
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