How To Hand Sew Overlock Stitch? Overlock Stitch In 4 Steps

Published:

Updated:

I was visiting a friend’s house and saw a stitch looking like an overcast stitch, and at the same time, a lock stitch. I was so confused. 😕 So, I came home, searched Google, and found out that it is an overlock stitch. It looked so interesting, so I decided to learn how to hand-sew an overlock stitch.

So, basically-

To hand sew an overlock stitch, fold the fabric edge, sew diagonal stitches over the edge, and repeat, ensuring each stitch loops over the fabric’s raw edge to prevent it from wearing out.

I know it’s not all. So, let’s teach you the process in detail. Let’s get into how to do overlock stitch by hand.

How To Hand Sew Overlock Stitch

What Is Overlock Stitch?

An overlock stitch is a type of stitch that sews over the edge of 1 or 2 pieces of fabric for edging, hemming, or seaming. Did you need to prevent the fabric edge from frying? And overlock stitch is your savior.

You mostly see the Overlock stitch in a blanket. It is a variation of the blanket stitch. It’s not just that the overlock stitch is also used in serge. That’s why the overlock stitch is also called the serging stitch.

What Is Overlock Stitch

Can You Do An Overlock Stitch By Hand?

Yes, you can do an overlock stitch by hand. It’s a variation of the blanket stitch.You can also use it for decorative outlines or border designs in hand embroidery. It’s kinda 

Can You Do An Overlock Stitch By Hand

How To Hand Sew Overlock Stitch?

To hand sew overlock stitch you need to follow 4 steps.

  1. Fold The Fabric Edge
  2. Push The Needle Through The 1st Mark
  3. Follow The Stitch Pattern
  4. Secure Overlock Stitch
How To Hand Sew Overlock Stitch

Fold The Fabric Edge

To fold fabric edges, put your fabric flat on a surface and align the edges that you want to hand stitch overlock. Fold the fabric edges inward about 1/4 inch and ensure they are even.

Fold The Fabric Edge

You can simply press it or use a 1/2 pic to keep the fold in place. You can use this for a hemming stitch, too.

Then mark out every 1/8 inch apart or your desired length.

Then mark out every 1/8 inch apart or your desired length.

Push The Needle Through The 1st Mark

Start by sinking the 11 or 12 size needle in at the first mark and bringing it through to the other piece of fabric. Pull it up through the loop where you just tied the thread, then push the needle through the second mark.

Push The Needle Through The 1st Mark

Don’t pull the thread too tightly because you’ll need to bring the needle back again.

Follow The Stitch Pattern

Continue stitching until you reach the end of your fabric. With each stitch, make sure to bring the needle through the loop created by the stitch before it.

Follow The Stitch Pattern

Space the stitches about 3mm to 4mm apart—they should be close enough to keep everything solid and neat.

This helps secure the thread and creates a neat pattern as you go along. Just keep threading the needle through that loop and repeat this pattern until you finish sewing the entire edge of your fabric. It’s a methodical process that ensures each stitch reinforces the one before it, giving your fabric a strong and tidy finish.

Secure Overlock Stitch

To secure the overlock stitch, thread the needle through the loop twice at the end to finish the overlock stitch. Then, trim any excess thread carefully, ensuring it’s neat and doesn’t leave loose ends.

Finally, inspect the seam to ensure it’s securely stitched all along the edge of your fabric, giving it a clean and professional finish. This method prevents fraying and adds durability to your sewing project.

Secure Overlock Stitch

That’s how to hand sew overlock stitch. 

What do you think is it easy to do overlock stitch? I bet it is. I did my overlock stitch just by following the above steps. But if you are new then I can feel your struggle. Watch this video to erase your struggle.

YouTube video

Double Overlock Stitch By Hand

To sew a double overlock stitch by hand, start by threading your needle and knotting the end of the thread. Begin stitching by inserting the needle into the fabric and creating a small stitch.

Next, insert the needle a short distance ahead and pull through, leaving a loop.

Before fully pulling the thread, pass the needle through the loop to create an interconnected stitch. Repeat this process along the edge of the fabric, creating a zigzag pattern of loops that secure the edge.

Double Overlock Stitch By Hand

Finish by knotting the thread on the underside of the fabric to secure it in place. This stitch reinforces edges and adds a decorative finish to your sewing projects.

Thread Needle Size For Hand Overlock Stitch

When choosing a needle size for hand overlock stitches, consider a few things depending on your work. For different fabrics, sharps needles are good for medium to heavy ones, while sizes 5 to 10 work well for lighter to medium fabrics. If you use fine fabrics or need small, delicate stitches, sizes 11 and 12 are a good bet.

Thread Needle Size For Hand Overlock Stitch

Do you wanna what size needle I prefer for overlock stitch?

Well, I think 11 size needle is perfect for overlock stitch.

Well, I think 11 size needle is perfect for overlock stitch.

As for thread thickness, thicker threads might need a larger needle. For instance, fire retardant embroidery thread around Tex 35 to 40 might do well with an 80/12 to 90/14 needle, and Tex 45 to 50 might need a 90/14 to 100/16 needle. Those needles are also usable for tent stitch.

If you’re new to needle selection, trying a variety pack with sizes ranging from 3 to 9 or 1 to 5 could be a good starting point.

All though the thread choice depends on you. I like to use tex 36 thread for overlock stitch.

36 thread for overlock stitch

How Do You Use A Zig Zag Stitch As An Overlocking Stitch?

To use a zigzag stitch as a hand overlocking stitch, thread your needle with suitable thread and anchor it at the fabric edge. Start creating a diagonal stitch across the fabric edge, alternating sides with each stitch to form a zigzag pattern.

Ensure stitches are evenly spaced for a secure finish.  

Continue this pattern along the entire edge of the fabric. Secure the thread at the end with a knot or back stitch, and trim any excess thread.

How Do You Use A Zig Zag Stitch As An Overlocking Stitch

This method mimics the zigzag stitch on a sewing machine, providing a sturdy edge that helps prevent fraying. Practice will help refine your technique for a neat and effective finish.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I Use Regular Sewing Thread For Hand Overlocking Stitches?

Yes, you can use regular sewing thread for hand overlocking stitches. For best results, choose a thread that matches the fabric weight and color. Thicker fabrics may require stronger threads.

What Needle Size Should I Use For Hand Overlocking Stitches?

Needle size depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Use sharps needles (sizes 5-10) for medium to heavy fabrics. Fine fabrics or delicate stitches may require sizes 11 or 12. Adjust needle size based on the thread thickness as well.

How Do I Prevent My Hand Overlocking Stitches From Unraveling?

To prevent unraveling, ensure your stitches are close together and consistent in tension. Start and finish with secure knots or back stitches. Using a slightly thicker thread or doubling the thread can also increase durability.

Now It’s Your Turn To Do Overlock Stitch

So, do you understand how to hand sew overlock stitch?

If so then what are you waiting for?

Start your overlock stitch and share with us your work.

Maisha Soumee

Maisha Soumee

Hi there! I’m Maisha Soumee, the proud torchbearer of our family’s sewing legacy and the driving force behind this website. With Grandma Manha’s teachings as my foundation, I’m honored to continue the tradition of craftsmanship and creativity. As a passionate seamstress, I’m dedicated to sharing the joy of sewing with you, our valued community.

2 responses to “How To Hand Sew Overlock Stitch? Overlock Stitch In 4 Steps”

  1. Sarah Avatar
    Sarah

    Your article was very helpful, especially the video! Thank you! I’m using an overlock stitch for the hem of the tunic I’m making for a ren faire. 🙂

    1. Maisha Soumee Avatar
      Maisha Soumee

      You’re very welcome—I’m so glad the article and video helped! 😊 An overlock stitch is a great choice for a ren faire tunic—strong, clean, and perfect for that handmade touch. Hope your project turns out amazing! Let me know if you run into any questions along the way.

Leave a Reply to Sarah Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Latest Posts