How To Do Overcast Stitch By Hand? 3 Steps To Sew Overcast

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I saw a cloth in Grandma with a stitch that looked like a blanket stitch, but it was kind of diagonal. I asked, ‘Did you sew a blanket stitch in the wrong way, Grandma?’

She said no, it was an overcast stitch.

Blanket stitch and overcast stitch by hand look kinda similar but quite different.

how to do overcast stitch by hand

She even shows me blanket stitch step by step with pictures. Which clears out my doubts. But I asked her to explain the process.

To Sew An Overcast Stitch

To do an overcast stitch by hand, just loop your needle and thread around the fabric edges from back to front repeatedly, making sure each stitch catches the edge to prevent fraying.

What about the thread and needle, grandma?

Let’s talk about it and teach you how to do overcast stitch by hand.

Main Facts Of This Embroidery Project:

  1. Create dots with ¼ inch gaps for overcasting stitch.
  2. Use size 8 needle for overcast stitching
  3. Size 10 thread is ideal for overcast stitching

What Is Overcasting Stitch?

An overcasting stitch is a hand stitch that wraps thread over the edge of the fabric. This stitch is often used on fabrics that tend to fray easily, like woven cotton or linen.

What Is Overcasting Stitch

It is particularly useful when you don’t have a serger or want a quick, durable finish. Overcasting can also be done with a sewing machine using a zigzag stitch. However, the hand-sewn version is ideal for small projects or areas that require more control.

3 Steps To Do Overcast Stitch By Hand

To do overcast stitch by hand, you need to follow 3 steps.

  1. Draw Dots And Make A Loop Thread.
  2. Push The Needle For The First Stitch
  3. Secure The Overcast Stitch.
Steps to overcast stitch by hand

Draw Dots And Make A Loop Thread.

You need to create dots, giving a ¼ inch gap.

After that, you gotta loop your thread. To secure the thread, loop it over the fabric edge and pass the needle through. The needle should be inserted through the fabric from back to front, slightly offset from the initial stitch. But don’t make it too tight like a ladder stitch, keep it gently.

Draw Dots And Make A Loop Thread

Push The Needle For The First Stitch

Now, push the needle through the first dot for the first hand stitches. This whip stitch should be the length you want, which is usually between ¼ inches and ⅜ Inches.

Push The Needle For The First Stitch

And usually 10-12 diagonal stitches per inch for most fabrics.

Understanding Stitch Length And Tension

-How much distance between satin stitches do you prefer, grandma?

– well, I usually like ⅛ inch gap between individual stitches for my overcast stitch.

 10-12 diagonal stitches per inch for most fabrics

Next, insert the needle overcasting the fabric.

Then, hold the thread in a diagonal way with 1 finger then push through the needle from the 2 dots and make couple of stitches.

hold the thread in a diagonal way with 1 finger

Continue this azigzag stitch until the end. You can do some fancy decorative stitches.

Continue this azigzag stitch until the end

How do you tie off an overcast stitch/ Secure The Overcast Stitch.

To secure the overcast stitch, grab the thread and overcast it on the wrong side of the fabric. Hold the thread, push through the needle under the last  straight stitch, pull through it and then again push the needle through the thread and tighten it. This will create a knot and secure the overcast stitch. 

That’s how to make overcast stitch by hand.

How do you tie off an overcast stitch

And that’s the end of overcast stitch methods! You can even do embroidery stitch with help of overcast stitch.

I know the process may have reminded you of the blanket stitch. So, do know how to do a blanket stitch by hand? If not then read out our article.

Overcast Stitch

Basic overcast stitch for hand sewing and project.

Basic Overcast Stitch

Overcast Stitch By Hand Patterns Name

The overcast stitch, commonly known as the whip stitch, is frequently used in patterns such as the blanket stitch, buttonhole stitch, crazy quilt stitch, and appliqué stitch. These patterns utilize the overcast stitch for decorative edges, seam finishing, and securing fabric pieces in hand embroidery and quilting projects.

Overcast Stitch Patterns

When I use the overcast stitch, it’s like wrapping a snug little blanket around the edge of my fabric. It’s kind of therapeutic, really just a series of neat, even stitches wrapping around the edge.

Overcast Stitch Patterns

It’s almost like I’m tucking the fabric in for bed. I love using the overcast stitch on projects like hemming or reinforcing seams. Especially when I want something that looks simple but effective. The result? A strong, tidy edge that adds a handmade touch.  Here few of my overcast stitch patterns:

Overcast stitch patterns for beginners
Overcast stitch symbol
what does an overcast stitch look like

Overcast Stitch Embroidery

When I use the overcast stitch in embroidery, I’m adding texture and depth to my designs. Instead of just stitching around the edge for a clean finish, I use it to outline shapes or give borders a slightly raised effect. It looks so stunning😍 Have a look:

Overcast Stitch Embroidery

Overcast Stitch Thread And Needle

When choosing a needle size for hand overcast stitching. It’s important to match the needle to the weight of the fabric you’re working with. Sharps are a common, all-purpose needle that comes in sizes ranging from 2 to 12. Sizes 2 to 4 are perfect for medium to heavy layers of fabric, while sizes 5 to 10 are best suited to sewing stitches light to medium fabrics. That needle also can help you out doing buttonhole stitches by hand.

overcast stitch needlepoint

However. For overcast parallel stitches 8 size needle is perfect to do overcast stitch by hand.

What You Need To Get Started overcast stitch

And for the thread-

Size 5 is great for wool and felt fabrics, while the thicker size 3 is perfect for couching. When I’m stitching fused art quilts or doing free-form embroideries.

However, I like to use sizes 10 thread for overcast stitching.

How To Use Overcast Stitch Thread And Needle

To use the overcast stitch with thread and needle, start by threading your needle and tying a knot at the end of the thread. Place the needle at the edge of the fabric and push it through from the back to the front. Pull the thread through and bring the needle around the edge of the fabric, inserting it back through the fabric near the initial stitch. Repeat this process along the edge, keeping the stitches evenly spaced to create a neat and secure overcast stitch.

Frequently Asked Questions(FAQ’S)

What Hand Stitch Stops Fraying?

The overcast hand stitch is an excellent hand stitch for preventing fabric edges from fraying. This stitch wraps around the raw overcast edge stitch of the fabric, creating a protective barrier that prevents the threads from unraveling.

Are Overcast And Overlock The Same?

Overcast and overlock are not the same, though they serve similar purposes. Overcast stitching is a hand-sewing technique used to finish fabric layers and prevent fraying by wrapping thread around the edge. Overlock, on the other hand, is a machine-sewing technique that uses matching threads to trim.

Why Would You Use A Overcast Stitch?

An overcast stitch foot prevents fabric edges from fraying and gives seam finish a neat, finished look. It’s particularly useful on fabrics that tend to unravel easily. 

Final Thought

So, yes overcast stitch by hand is a very interesting kind of stitch. It is kinda similar to blanket stitch. But you can do overcast stitch not just on the edge of fabric but also anywhere you want.

Maisha Soumee

Maisha Soumee

Hi there! I’m Maisha Soumee, the proud torchbearer of our family’s sewing legacy and the driving force behind this website. With Grandma Manha’s teachings as my foundation, I’m honored to continue the tradition of craftsmanship and creativity. As a passionate seamstress, I’m dedicated to sharing the joy of sewing with you, our valued community.

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