Ever wondered if you could do beautiful surface embroidery without spending hours stitching by hand? Good news, you totally can, and your sewing machine can help make it happen.
Surface embroidery is all about decorating the top of your fabric with fancy stitches. You can do surface embroidery on a machine with 2 main options:
- A Computerized Embroidery Machine
- Free-Motion Embroidery Using A Regular Sewing Machine.
Why does it need needs special machine? Well, A regular sewing machine is designed for straight-line stitching, with feed dogs moving fabric forward. That works well for seams and hems but not for intricate embroidery designs.
embroidery
To create surface embroidery manually on a standard machine, you need to disable the feed dogs and use a darning or free-motion foot. This allows you to move the fabric in any direction, much like drawing with your needle.
Sounds easy, but tempting, so I jump at the chance to try this machine embroidery stitches.
Table of Contents
What Is The Surface Embroidery?
Surface embroidery is a technique where decorative stitches are worked directly on top of the fabric, rather than through it, like in counted thread styles. This is also called free-style embroidery.
This method gives you creative freedom, and stitches can flow in any direction. It is fun cause you can experiment with different threads and textures to bring your design to life.
In simpler terms,
In surface embroidery, you’re stitching on top of the fabric, and you’re not counting threads or punching all the way through a tight grid like cross stitch or needlepoint. It’s more free-form and artistic.
There are even 8 different kinds of forms of surface embroidery, such as,
- Applique
- Art needlework
- Crewel embroidery
- Cross stitch
- Goldwork
- Jacobean embroidery
- Stumpwork
- Free motion
Each of them is stunning in its own way. But today I wanna talk about just surface form.
Surface Embroidery Stitches
Surface embroidery stitches are decorative stitches applied on the surface of the fabric, not passed through it like in counted-thread work. Popular examples include,
- Running Stitch
- Backstitch
- Stem Stitch
- Chain Stitch
- Satin Stitch
- French Knots
- Lazy Daisy Stitch.
These stitches offer great versatility, which is why it is suitable for this embroidery.
How To Use Surface Embroidery On Sewing Machine For Beginners?
To surface embroidery on a sewing machine, follow the 7 steps,
- Cover Feed Dogs
- Attach Darning Foot
- Set Up Sewing Machine
- Lower The Pressure Foot
- Slowly Press The Padel
- Fill Up Shape With Back N Forth Motion
- Tie A Thread To End The Embroidery
Lower or Cover the Feed Dogs
Feed dogs are those little teeth that help move the fabric automatically as you sew. For free-motion embroidery, you want to move the fabric yourself, so we need to disable those teeth. It is also helpful for a triple straight stitch.
Here’s how to do it:
- Some Brother machines: Find a switch near the toolbox area with a symbol resembling feed dogs.
- Other models: The switch might be on the back or side near the cables.
If your machine doesn’t have a drop-feed function, then use a feed dog cover plate, which can be easily found online.
Attach a Free-Motion Darning Foot For Surface Embroidery
A regular presser foot won’t cut it here. You’ll need a darning foot. These come in different types:
- Open-toe feet for better visibility
- Closed-toe feet for standard work
- Transparent feet for delicate fabrics
For surface embroidery, I like to use a foot that has a short distance (½ inch or less) between the screw and the bottom of the presser bar. You can use it for outline quilting by machine, too.
Set Your Machine Settings For Surface Embroidery
I always set the stitch type to a straight stitch. That’s the most basic and reliable choice for free-motion embroidery.
Next, I dial the stitch length down to “0” or the lowest setting available on my machine. Why?
Because I want full control over how the fabric moves under the needle. With the stitch length set to zero, the feed dogs won’t pull the fabric for me.
Lower The Presser Foot
I lower the presser foot and gently lower the needle into the starting point of my design using the handwheel. Before I even press the pedal, I pull the bobbin thread up through the top by taking one full stitch like cutwork.
That way, both the top and bobbin threads are up where I can hold them. This helps avoid any messy thread nests underneath. You can try it for the pintuck stitch pattern, too.
Slowly Pressing The Foot Pedal
I start slowly pressing the foot pedal while manually guiding the hoop with my hands. The key here is this: the machine doesn’t move the fabric, I do.
I’m in control of the direction, speed, and shape. I like to think of it as drawing, except I’m using thread instead of a pencil.
I usually begin with outlining my design.
I trace slowly around the lines of my shape. If I want a bolder line, I go over the same path 2–3 times. It’s totally up to me how dark or defined the line should be.
Fill The Surface Embroidery Shape With Back-And-Forth Or Circular Motions
Once the outline is complete, I proceed to filling or shading. This part is super creative. I use tiny back-and-forth or circular motions, almost like coloring in a drawing.
Sometimes I stitch close rows of straight stitches for a satin-like fill; other times, I just freehand it with loops or swirls. There’s no one right way.
The best part?
I can change direction at any moment.
Want to curve? Just move the hoop that way. Want to go from vertical lines to horizontal?
I just shifted my hands. That freedom is exactly why I love surface embroidery. It feels like painting with thread.
Pull The Threads To The Back And Tie Them Off
When I finish a section, I always pull the threads to the back and tie them off, so nothing unravels.
Then I move on to the next part of the design, using the same slow and steady approach.
Free Surface Embroidery On Sewing Machine Tutorial
Free Motion Embroidery on Any Sewing Machine | Easy Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners!
Surface Embroidery Patterns
If you wanna try this embroidery, then try this method.
Frequently asked questions
What type of fabric works best?
Stiff felt, tightly woven cotton, or canvas are great to start with. These fabrics don’t shift much, providing good control. Use stabilizer underneath lighter fabrics for better results.
Do I need an embroidery hoop?
It helps! A small embroidery hoop (that fits under your presser foot) keeps the fabric taut, making it easier to move smoothly. But with practice, some stitchers go hoopless, too.
What type of thread should I use?
Regular sewing thread works fine for practice. However, for vibrant results, consider using embroidery thread, rayon, or even metallic thread for added special effects. Use a good embroidery needle to prevent thread breaks.
Final Thoughts
Surface embroidery with a sewing machine is an exciting way to bring artistic flair to your fabric. And no, you don’t need an expensive machine to get started.
With the right setup and a bit of practice, even a beginner can create beautiful, textured designs on a wide range of items, from clothing to wall art.
Let your creativity flow literally with every stitch!
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