After I got my first embroidery machine, I was mostly winging it testing designs, getting frustrated when things puckered. And wondering why my stitches didn’t look as “filled in” as the pretty samples online.
One day, I downloaded a floral design that looked gorgeous on screen, but when I stitched it out? It looked patchy, like something was missing.
That’s when I found out about full stitch machine embroidery. It’s easier than other machine embroidery stitches. All you need,
Fill Stitch
To do a fill stitch in machine embroidery, select or digitize a design with fill areas, set the stitch density and direction, and let your embroidery machine stitch the pattern over the fabric.
Sounds tempting, right? It looks more tempting, too. So let’s do it together now.
Table of Contents
What Is A Fill Stitch In Machine Embroidery?
A fill stitch in machine embroidery is a series of closely placed stitches used to cover large areas of fabric with thread. This is also known as the tatami stitch. It creates solid, textured 3d shape.
It is commonly used for lettering, logos, and detailed designs. The stitch pattern can vary in angle, density, and style to give different textures and effects.
What Is The Best Stitch For Filling In Embroidery?
Tatami fill stitch is the best for filling embroidery. It’s versatile, durable, and holds up well on a wide range of fabrics without creating bulk or puckering.
However, in machine embroidery, several types of fill stitches are used to add texture and depth to designs. Common machine embroidery stitch types include:
- Tatami (or Cretan) Fill Stitch
- Satin Fill Stitch
- Brick Stitch
- Waffle Fill
- Contour Fill
- Random Fill
You have server options. You can experiment with all the stitches. However, the tatami stitch is my favourite one. So, today I’m going to demonstrate it.
How To Do Fill Stitch Machine Embroidery?
To do a fill stitch on a sewing machine, follow the 6 steps,
- Prepare The Design
- Stabilise The Fabric
- Press The Start Button
- Stitch Inside The Design
- Maintain Fill Stitch Length
- Finishes It Up
Prep Your Design for Tatami Fill
I fire up my embroidery software. I pick the section of the design I want to fill, usually something like a leaf or a big letter.
Then I select “Tatami Fill” (sometimes called “Celtic” or “Cretan” fill in older machines).
Recommended Fill Settings:
- Density: 0.4 mm – 0.45 mm (standard)
- Stitch Length: 2.5 mm – 3.0 mm
- Underlay: Edge Walk + Zigzag (for best stability)
- Angle: Typically set between 45°–90° (depending on design flow)
These numbers might sound techy, but trust me, they make a big difference. If the density is too tight, your fabric puckers. Too loose? The thread coverage looks patchy.
Stabilise The Fabric For The Fill Stitch
Before I even think about stitching, I hoop my fabric tight and firm. Then I slide in a medium-weight cutaway stabiliser.
I need it especially if I’m working on knits or stretchy fabric. For lighter fabrics like quilting cotton, a tearaway works too.
Press The Start Button To Start Filling Stitching
I press the start button, and the machine begins with the underlay stitch. First, it traces a light outline around the fill area. It is kind of like sketching the border of a coloring book. This is called an Edge Walk underlay.
It gives the fill something to hold onto, especially on slippery or stretchy fabric.
Stitched Inside The Outline
Next comes a zigzag underlay, stitched inside the outline. This one acts like tiny scaffolding.
It’s like lifting the top stitches slightly off the fabric to give them body and prevent sinking.
Keep Stitching, Maintaining the Fill Stitch Gap
Each line of stitches overlaps slightly with the one before it, and the machine maintains a consistent stitch length.
Fill stitch length is typically between 2.5 mm and 3.0 mm, depending on your settings.
You’ll notice that the angle of the stitching subtly shifts every few passes, especially on curves or rounded shapes. This is intentional and helps spread out the tension, preventing the fabric from pucking or rippling.
Note:
If you were to measure the stitch rows, the distance between rows (stitch density) would typically be around 0.4 mm for standard coverage for Meander Fill. For heavier fill, it might go as tight as 0.35 mm for gradient fills.
Finishing Touches of fill stitch
Once it’s stitched out, I gently remove the hoop, trim the stabilizer from the back, and press the fabric from the reverse side using a pressing cloth.
Tatami fills look super professional and give that “store-bought” embroidery feel. They hold up in the wash, keep their shape, and don’t get all wrinkly like some basic fills.
Fill Stitch Machine Embroidery Patterns
If you wanna try machine embroidery but don’t know where to start, then use these pattern ideas.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between satin and fill stitches?
Satin stitches are tightly packed, shiny, and great for outlining or small shapes, while fill stitches cover larger areas with rows of parallel stitches creating texture and coverage.
What stitch is used to fill letters in embroidery?
Usually, a fill stitch like the Tatami stitch is used to fill larger letters, giving them solid coverage, while smaller or decorative letters might use satin stitches.
Do you outline or fill first in embroidery?
It depends on the design, but often the fill stitch is done first to cover the area, followed by outlining stitches to sharpen edges and add detail.
Final thought
Tatami fill stitch quickly became one of my favourite techniques once I understood how clean and professional it made my embroidery look. It’s satisfying to watch those smooth rows build up and cover the fabric evenly.
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