How To Top Stitch By Hand (Professional Finishing Guide)

I wanted to sew some stitches outside the edge of the thicker fabric. I was thinking what to do? I know 20 types of stitches, but I can’t decide what to do. That’s when Grandma came and said I need to do a top stitch.

A top stitch will give your handmade garments a crisp, professional look. You don’t need a machine to do it.

Top stitching is a visible line of stitching sewn on the outside of a garment, usually parallel to a seam or edge. While it may look decorative, ithas a very important job; it holds the seam allowance flat and adds extra strength to high-stress areas like necklines and pockets.

In this guide, I will show you exactly how to sew a straight, even top stitch by hand that looks just like it came from a factory.

It won’t do, grandma! ?Show me in depth and teach me how to top stitch by hand.

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What Is A Top Stitch?

Top stitching is a visible line of stitches on the right side of the fabric, typically running parallel to a seam line or edge. It is usually  1/4 -1/2″ away from the edge of the fabric.

A top stitch is a line of stitches sewn on the outside of your fabric, close to a seam or edge. It’s not just for looks (though it can be really stylish). But it actually secures the edge.  That’s the difference between pick stitch and topstitch.

The ideal length of the top stitch is around 1/8 to 3/16 inches (3mm–5mm). This length is perfect for topstitch, especially for half-loop topstitch. This length is perfect for any hand stitch.

But not everyone agrees!

Some sewists say, “Yes, that’s the sweet spot,” while others say, “No way, it depends on the fabric and the pattern”

What Does A Top Stitch Look Like?

You can often find it on things like jeans, jackets, or bags, where it adds a decorative touch and helps reinforce the seams. It’s typically done in a contrasting color to stand out. It’s kinda similar to pad stitching collar.

Top Stitch By Hand Pattern

Top stitch is so simple but if you know where to put it then it can be decorative too.

How To Top Stitch By Hand?

To hand sew top stitch follow 5 steps.

1. Mark For Top Stitching
2. Bring The Needle Through The Back Side
3. Start Stitching From The Back
4. Backtrack A Bit To Where Your Stitch Should Start
5. Finishing Touch Of Top Stitch

Now let’s get into topstitching by hand.

Mark the stitch area with a marker or a pen just like you would do in pick stitch. But, you gotta remember you need to maintain certain gaps between stitches to start stitching. Marking makes the sewing stitch easy. Depending on the sewing pattern of the tacking stitch by hand.

To do that-

Grab your iron and gently press ¼ inch towards the wrong side along one long decorative edging of the binding. Just like you would do for whip stitching.

I know it’s hard. But don’t worry! Keep a clear ruler handy to help you figure out the width of that ¼ inch. It might feel slow at first, but trust me, you’ll get faster with practice. This process can seem easier if you know the blanket stitch step by step.

Now I thread the topstitching needle with nylon top stitch thread.

Grab a top-stitch needle with an extra-large eye and a deeper groove.

Bring that needle through from the wrong side to the right side of your fabric, keeping it about 1/4 inch away from the edge. As if you do while doing buttonhole stitch.

Start stitching from the back, moving up through the top of the fabric, leaving a stitch length from where you began with ease stitch tension. Stitch tension is kinda similar to slip stitch. As you stitch, make sure you’re catching all the bits of fabric you want to secure—that’s the key to a nice, tidy stitch job! This will help you make a top stitch by hand easily.

Now, take a peek at the image below. See that first row of stitches? Yeah, that’s what you’re aiming for. But check out the second row for reference—that’s where you’re headed next. No worries it isn’t tricky like saddle stitch.

Let’s backtrack a bit to where your stitch should start. Once you’re there, push that needle and thread back down through the fabric, and give it a good pull to make sure it’s secure. That’s your first visible stitch? Isn’t the top stitch hand sewing so easy?

-What about the length of topstitch?

Now, here’s where it gets interesting-

Bring that needle and thread back up through the back, about 1 stitch length to the right of your first stitch. This helps to do a balanced stitch. Just like a hemming stitch. Then, push the needle and thread through the second hole of the first stitch you made. This little move helps create a smoother, more seamless line of stitching. It’s all about those finishing touches, right?

 You can apply this technique to blind hem stitch pants and jeans as well.

You can give the finishing touch of the top stitch in 3 ways. It’s all about the looks, not about holding things together. So, there’s no need for any backstitching—it just adds unnecessary bulk to the project of your top stitching by hand.

Instead, here’s a slick Grandma move:

Now, there’s another trick you can use to secure those threads-

You can shorten your stitch length as much as possible from the previous stitch.  And tack the stitches in place at the beginning and end of your seam. You can do some shorter stitches, too, if you wish. And cut down the sharp scissors if you want.

Or you can do this-

Press down your stitch. Make sure to adjust the thread tension. This will be helpful if you want to pick up the stitch on the lapel.

It is advisable to test your topstitching skills on delicate fabrics to ensure proper color thread tension, even if you are experienced.

This step helps blend those stitches into heavier fabrics, making your stitch combinations look even better. When you’re pressing, go for an up-and-down motion instead of sliding the iron across the fabric like you would when ironing a shirt for work. This is even helpful while doing buttonhole stitch by hand.

And that’s it! That’s how to hand sew a top stitch!

I show you a simple form of this stitch, which is mainly used for securing the edge.

But this stitch also has a decorative form. For example,

I used an 18–24″ thread, marked two parallel lines with a 2″ gap, and placed a stiletto in between for guidance.

Then,

I stitched around the stiletto from one side to the other, keeping the loops a little loose to create that lovely half-loop texture. Keep stitching back and forth tightly until you’re done, then slide out the stiletto.

You’ve got a textured, decorative top stitch that looks amazing. 

When you’re selecting a sewing needle size, it’s important to match it with the thickness of your topstitching thread. Such as:

However, medium needles, around #90/14, are perfect for medium-weight threads like those in the 40 wt. range. And if you’re dealing with heavier threads like 30 wt. and above, go for larger needles such as #100/16. This way, you’ll ensure your sewing goes smoothly, and your stitches look just the way you want them to.

-What about the thread, Grandma?

Alright, let’s talk purpose thread for topstitching. The key here is finding one that matches your fabric weight. Like, if you’re sewing stitches on something heavy like leather, you’ll need a tough, substantial topstitching thread that can handle the job.

But here’s the twist-

The thickness of your thread also affects how your stitching looks. So, lighter weights—like Tex 35, 40, or 45—give you those subtle, delicate stitches. For a middle-of-the-road look, aim for Tex 60-90.

There are 11 types of top stitch methods, such as:

1. Single Topstitch: This is the basic topstitch where a single line of stitching is sewn along the edge or straight seam of a fabric piece. It’s simple yet effective for adding a clean, finished look to your project.
2. Double Topstitch: In this style, two parallel lines of stitching are sewn, usually with a small gap between them. It creates a more decorative and defined look, often used on garment seams or pockets.
3. Triple Topstitch: Similar to the double topstitch, but with three lines of stitching. This adds even more emphasis and detail, commonly seen on denim jeans or heavy-duty bags.
4. Running Stitch: A basic stitch in which the needle and thread pass through the fabric in a straight line, creating a dashed appearance. Running stitch is simple yet versatile, perfect for adding subtle detail.
5. Zigzag Stitch: A strong stitch, it creates a zigzag pattern as the needle moves back and forth. It’s great for securing edges or adding decorative flair.
6. Serpentine Stitch: Similar to the zigzag, but with a more wavy, serpentine pattern. It’s fun and playful, adding a whimsical touch to your sewing projects.
7. Stem Stitch: Often used in embroidery, the stem construction stitch creates a rope-like line that’s perfect for outlining shapes or adding text.
8. Cable Stitch: This stitch resembles the twists of a cable and is often used for decorative purposes, adding texture and interest to your stitching.
9. Rosette Stitch: Named for its resemblance to a rose, this stitch creates a circular pattern with overlapping loops. It’s elegant and sophisticated, perfect for adding a touch of romance to your sewing projects.
10. Chevron Stitch: This stitch creates a V-shaped pattern, similar to the chevrons on a military uniform. It’s bold and striking, adding a modern touch to your stitching.
11. Fern Stitch: Inspired by the delicate fronds of a fern, this stitch creates a feathery pattern that adds organic texture to your sewing projects.

How long it takes to hand-sew a top really depends on a few things. If the pattern is simple and you’re pretty skilled, you might knock it out in 8-12 hours. But, if you’re taking your time, dealing with distractions, or tackling a more complex design, it could stretch out over a week or so of leisurely sewing.

How To Top Stitch By Hand PDF?

If you easily forget things, then this PDF will help you out.

Frequently Asked Questions(FAQ’s)

Warp Up

Well, after Grandma showed me how to hand sew top stitch. I did it myself and it turned out to be so amazing trust me! Hard to believe? Then try it out yourself and tell us the result of sewing inspo.