I still remember the first time I tried hemming a skirt by hand. I was so excited to wear it, but the hem had come undone at the last minute.
Instead of reaching for a sewing machine, I grabbed a needle and thread, sat by the window with a cup of tea, and carefully hem line stitch on it. That’s when I realized many of my sewinginspo readers may not know this.
But it’s so easy. You just gotta do it,
To sew a hemline stitch by hand, fold the fabric edge, secure it with pins, and use a slip stitch or blind stitch for an invisible finish.
Let’s learn more about it.
Table of Contents
What Is A Hemming Line?
The hemline is simply the bottom edge of a garment like a dress, skirt, or coat measured from the floor. It’s one of fashion’s most changeable style elements, shifting from mini to floor-length over the years.
What’s considered trendy or appropriate depends on various factors, including personal style, the occasion, and even the wearer’s age. So yeah, that’s what hem line is.
Now, let’s do a hemline stitch, ok?
Steps To Do Hem Line Stitch By Hand
The hand-held hem line stitch can be done within 4 steps.
- Fold The Hem And Pin It Down
- Grab The Hem In Folding Form
- Insert The Needle Inside & Out Through The Hem
- Again, Push The Needle Through The Same Hem Line
- Insert The Needle Through The Folded Hem
- Then Again, Insert The Needle In & Out Through The Main Fabric Stitch
Fold The Hem And Pin It Down
First, I fold the fabric up to the medium hemline. I ensure it’s even all around. This will make the hemming stitch perfect. I fold the fabric twice to tuck in the raw edge for a cleaner finish if the fabric frays. Then, I press the fold with an iron to keep it in place.
Once the fold is crisp,
I grab my pins and start securing the hem. I space the pins about 2–3 inches apart to hold everything neatly. I use fabric clips to avoid leaving marks when working with delicate or slippery fabric. Now, the hem is set and ready for stitching.
You can apply this trick for knotted hemming stitches, too.
Grab The Hem In Folding Form
I gently hold the fabric with the hem folded and pinned in place. I keep one hand underneath to support the fabric while the other works on the stitch. If the fabric is thick, I grip it firmly so it doesn’t shift.
Insert The Needle Inside & Out Through The Main Fabric
Now, I take my threaded needle and start from the inside of the fabric. I push the needle through a tiny bit of the main fabric, just enough to catch a few threads. This step is kinda like a slip hemming stitch, right?
Pull the thread, but don’t lock it like you would do for basic different types of stitches.
Again, Push The Needle Through The Same Stitch line
I continue by inserting the needle back through the same line. Like before, I catch a tiny bit of the main fabric. And that should be locking the stitch.
I make sure to keep the tension even too tight. And the fabric might pucker. It is too loose, and the hem won’t hold properly.
Then again,
Insert the needle through the same stitch, but don’t pull the thread all in this time. Make a loop, slide through the loop and lock it.
Insert The Needle Through The Folded Hem
I carefully insert the needle through the folded hem’s edge, ensuring not pull too much of the main fabric. This helps keep the stitches nearly invisible from the outside as they were on the vertical hemstitch.
I work my way along the hem, keeping my stitches evenly spaced. I use smaller stitches for a neater finish if I hem a delicate fabric. I ensure my stitches are secure but not too tight for thicker fabrics to avoid puckering.
Then Again, Insert The Needle In & Out Through The Main Fabric Stitch
I repeat the process by inserting the needle into the main fabric, picking up just a tiny bit of it to keep the stitch nearly invisible from the outside. Then, I bring the needle back out through the hem fold.
Then again, push the needle through the folded hem. And now, keep repeating this process.
So yeah, that’s how to hem an a line dress. Isn’t it easy? If you are still confused, then watch this video tutorial.
Visual tutorial Hand Sewing a Stretchy Hemline
Frequently Asked Questions
How Do I Prevent My Hem From Puckering?
Avoid pulling the thread too tight, and make sure your stitches are evenly spaced. Using a thimble can also help control your tension.
Can I Use Embroidery Thread For Hemming?
You can, but it may be too thick for delicate fabrics. Stick to regular sewing thread for a clean and professional finish.
How Long Does It Take To Hem By Hand?
It depends on the fabric and stitch type, but hemming a simple skirt or pants leg usually takes 15–30 minutes.
The End
Hem line stitch is one of those simple yet satisfying skills that can take your sewing projects to the next level. There’s something so rewarding about creating a clean, polished edge with just a needle, thread, and a little patience. Plus, it gives you full control over every stitch.If you want to learn more about the names of sewing stitches, then look at our sewing book.
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