Ever finished a quilt top and wondered, “Now how do I make all the details pop?” That’s where outline quilting by machine comes in. Now, how does it differ from regular quilting? Well,
Quilting refers to stitching through the quilt top, batting, and backing to hold them together. Outline quilting is a specific quilting technique where you stitch around shapes or designs to highlight them.
Outline Quilting
So, in short, all outline quilting is quilting, but not all quilting is outline quilting.
And here’s the best part,
You don’t need a longarm machine to start. You can do it with the regular sewing machine. You don’t need a special machine like other machine embroidery stitches.
Wanna try it? Let’s try it together.
Table of Contents
How To Do Outline Quilting By Machine?
To do outlining by machine, follow the steps below,
- Get Bobbin Thread
- Secure Starting Point
- Set The Length
- Match Machine Speed And Hand Control
- Stitch Around The Design
- Reposition The Hand According To The Design
- Break It Into Small Sections For The Quilting Borders For Beginners
- End It With A Thread
Prepare Bobbin Thread For Outline Quilting
Before I take my first stitch, I bring up the bobbin thread. I lower the needle using the handwheel (or the needle up/down button if your machine has one), then raise it again. This thread is also perfect for a fill-up stitch.
This pulls the bobbin thread to the top of the quilt. I gently tug on the top thread to catch the bobbin loop, then pull both threads toward the back.
Secure The Starting Point With 2\3 Tiny Stitches
Once both threads are out of the way, I secure the starting point with 2–3 tiny stitches in place. If you’re more experienced or plan to travel the same path later, you could skip this, but I prefer having peace of mind.
Some quilters backstitch a little. I don’t think free-motion quilting does backstitch the same way as walking foot quilting. Tiny “jog-in-place” stitches work better here, like cutwork embroidery.
Set Outline Quilting Length
For machine outline quilting, a stitch length between 3.0 and 3.5 mm (roughly 8–12 stitches per inch) is usually ideal.
This slightly longer stitch gives you a nice balance.
-I like to keep the outline quilt stitch length 3.5 mm.
It’s easier for the needle to pierce through all the quilt layers smoothly, and the stitches come out looking clean and defined. Plus, it’s more forgiving when quilting around curves or detailed shapes.
Match Machine Speed to Hand Movement
My foot pedal controls the needle speed, but my hands control the fabric. The trick is to find a rhythm where the stitches are evenly spaced. Not too long (from moving too fast) and not too short (from moving too slow).
Here’s how I do it:
- I start slow, especially if I’m following a tight curve or a complex shape.
- If the shape is smooth and sweeping, I speed up my hand motion slightly.
I watch the needle, not the entire quilt, and focus about ½” ahead of it. That helps with anticipating turns and maintaining flow. I also maintain it for the stem stitch.
Stitch Around the Design
In outline quilting, you’re basically “tracing” the printed or appliqué design on the quilt top. So,
I start outlining from the center of the quilt and work my way outward. This helps reduce puckers and keeps the fabric smooth. I stitch clockwise or counterclockwise, depending on which direction makes it easier to see the line I’m following.
Reposition The Hand Every 3–5 Inches
I lift my hands and reposition them every 3–5 inches. That’s my personal “control zone.” Beyond that, my stitches get wobbly. For tricky corners, I slow down the machine or even stitch one stitch at a time using the foot pedal or needle button.
If I’m outlining something like a flower, I usually stitch the petals first, then the center, and move on to the leaves or stems. It feels more natural and flows better.
Break Into Small Sections For Machine Quilting Borders For Beginners
Break it into smaller sections mentally. Stitch a portion, pause, and reposition my hands, then continue. If I must stop in the middle of a line, I try to do it on a curve or corner. That hides the stop/start better.
Sometimes I’ll leave pins in place if they’re not in the way, but if they’re close to the stitching path, I remove them just before reaching them—never stitch over pins!
Secure The End Outline Quitting With Thread Tie Off
When I reach the end of a line, I take 3-4 tiny stitches again to lock it. Then I pull the quilt away, trim the top thread, and pull the bobbin thread through to the top using a pin or needle.
Why?
Because I like to tie off and bury my threads for a cleaner back (especially if it’s a show quilt or a gift).
Outline Quilting By Machine Youtube
How to Straight Line Quilt, Quilting with a Walking Foot, How to Quilt Your Quilt
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I quilt without drawing lines?
You can quilt without marking lines by using the natural shapes in your quilt top—like applique edges, patchwork seams, or printed fabric designs—as your stitching guide. This is exactly what outline quilting does! Just follow the edge of a motif or block with your needle to emphasize the shape without needing any marking tools.
Is it better to hand quilt or machine quilt?
It depends on your project and preferences. Hand quilting offers a soft, traditional finish and is great for fine heirloom work, but it takes time and patience. Machine quilting, on the other hand, is faster, more durable for everyday use, and can handle thick layers more easily. For beginners or large quilts, machine quilting (especially outline quilting) is often more practical.
Final Thoughts
If you’re using a new batting or aren’t sure what filler designs you’ll be using later, I definitely recommend completing the full outline quilting first. It stabilizes the quilt and gives you a great foundation to work on.
Honestly, outline quilting is time-consuming and takes practice, but it’s incredibly rewarding. The control you gain, the depth it adds to the quilt, and the room it creates for creative filler designs make it well worth it.
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