After experimenting with the knotted hemstitch, my next adventure is the Vertical Hemming Stitch, and honestly, I’m hooked!
The way the stitches stand tall in a neat vertical line immediately caught my eye. But what really sealed the deal? The extra security it provides. A stitch that looks good and reinforces the fabric? There’s no way I could resist trying it!
You just gotta do it,
To do a Vertical Hemming Stitch by hand, secure the fabric edge, take small vertical stitches from the hem to the main fabric, spacing them evenly for a strong and neat finish.
Sounds promising? Let’s get into the details of this stitch among hand stitch types.
Table of Contents
What Is A Vertical Hemming Stitch?
A vertical hemming stitch is a hem stitch but in vertical form. Instead of stitching at an angle like a slip stitch, the needle moves vertically between the folded hem and the fabric.
The vertical hem stitch is also great for hems, finished with seam binding or stretch lace. It works just like the slanted hemming stitch.
This gives the hem extra durability and stability, making it a stronger option than the slanted hemming stitch.
How To Do Vertical Hemming Stitch In Sewing?
To do vertical hemming stitch, follow 4 steps,
- Fold The Fabrica For Vertical Hemming
- Secure the Thread
- Insert The Needle Into The Folded Edge, Catching a Few Threads From the Fabric
- Secure The Vertical Hem Stitch
Fold The Fabrica For Vertical Hemming
First, let’s fold the edge of the fabric because hemming is always done on a hem. Make a neat fold along the edge where you want the hem to be. This will be our guide for stitching.
But be aware of the depth of hem. Cause wrong depth of the hem can ruin any type of hemming stitch. When deciding on a hem depth, consider the
- Type Of Garment
- The Shape Of The Hemline
- The Fabric Weight.
For example,
Skirts, dresses, and coats usually have wider hems (about 2 to 3 inches), while jackets, pants, and blouses do better with narrower hems (around 1 to 2 inches).
If the hemline is straight, a deeper hem (2 to 3 inches) helps it sit nicely. This hem depth is perfect for slip hem stitch.
But if it’s flared or circular. A narrower hem (½ to 1 inch) prevents bulk and keeps it flowing smoothly.
You’ll want a wide or narrow rolled hem for sheer fabrics to keep it looking light and delicate. And if you’re working with thick, bulky fabric, try using a lighter-weight facing instead of a traditional hem to avoid extra bulk.
But,
Since I am practising, I am keeping a 1-inch hem depth for now.
Secure The Thread
Now, working from right to left, secure your thread by making a small knot inside the fold—this keeps it hidden.
Bring the needle out through the fold and then insert it into the flat fabric below. Picking up only two or three threads. This helps keep the stitch nearly invisible from the right side.
Insert The Needle Back Down Into The Folded Edge, Catching a Few Threads From the Fabric
Next, insert the needle back down into the folded edge, catching a few threads from the fabric. It should be about 1 to 2 millimetres further along.
Then,
Push the needle in through the folded hem & Pull the needle through. Just like that, you’ve made your first vertical hemming stitch!
Keep repeating this along the hem, ensuring not to pull too tightly. Otherwise, the fabric will pucker on the right side.
Secure The Vertical Hem Stitch
Once you reach the end of the hem, it’s time to secure everything. Pull the needle through the loop of the last stitch, tighten the knot, and repeat once more for extra security.
And that’s it! You’ve sewn a vertical hemming stitch. Now, take a look at your work,
on the right side, the stitches should be barely visible.
While the wrong side will show neat vertical stitches. Keep practising, and soon, this stitch will feel like second nature!
Frequently Asked Questions
Why Do Straight Hems Need Deeper Hems?
A deeper hem on a straight edge helps the fabric drape better and stay in place, giving a polished look.
What Kind Of Hem Is Best For Flared Or Circular Edges?
Narrow hems (about ½ to 1 inch) work best because they prevent bulk and allow the fabric to maintain its natural flow.
How Should I Hem Sheer Fabrics?
Sheer fabrics work well with very wide or narrow rolled hems to keep them lightweight and elegant.
That’s It
And that’s it! The vertical hemming stitch is handy for all types of hemming stitches, especially when you need a strong yet subtle hem. I love how neat it looks while still keeping everything secure. The trick is to keep your stitches small and even.
And, of course, not to pull too tightly so the fabric stays smooth.Like any stitching types, it gets easier with practice. So, don’t stress if your first few stitches aren’t perfect. Just grab some fabric, start stitching, and soon it’ll feel like second nature. Happy sewing! 😊
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