12 Essential Types of Hand Hemming Stitches (With Pictures & Free PDF)

I became completely captivated when I learned how to do the hem stitch by hand from my grandma! I couldn’t resist stitching around every fabric edge I found. It felt almost like a calming ritual, until one bright idea struck me.
Wait… there’s not just one way to do a hem stitch? Excited to learn more, I started exploring further, and to my surprise, there are actually 12 different types of hemming stitches you can do by hand. Each one has its own special purpose. Plus, some of these stitches are real favourites among sewing enthusiasts. Here are 12 of the most popular hand-sewn hem stitches,

It’s wonderful to see how a simple technique can offer so many fun variations!! Which one to use depends on the kind of sewing project you’re working on.

Key takeaways of types of hemming stitches by hand:

1. There are 12 different types of hemming stitches
2. Some stitches are stitcher favourites, like the Knotted, Close, Vertical, and Slip Hemming Stitches.
3. The Slip Hemming Stitch is the best choice for a nearly invisible hem.
4. If durability is a priority, the Knotted Hemming Stitch adds extra strength. This is also perfect for a decorative hand hem stitch.

Types Of Hemming Stitches By Hand PDF

12 Types Of Hemming Stitches By Hand Explained

The 12 types of hemming stitches I recommend you begin learning will allow you to tackle any hemming project. If you’re looking for more sewing stitch types, we’ve put together 20 easy hand stitches you can try here.

The Knotted Hemming Stitch is like a regular hemming stitch but with a knot. Tiny knots are added at gaps instead of just stitching along the fabric edge. It makes the hem stronger and less likely to crack over time.

How does it look?  The knotted hem looks neat and diagonal, with the knots blending subtly into the fabric when done carefully. This stitch is a favourite for garments that see a lot of wear. Think skirts, trousers, or even household linens.

That’s why a knotted hemming stitch is perfect for securing hems in lightweight fabrics, giving a nice, discreet finish that blends seamlessly.lightweight fabrics with a discreet knotted finish.

The knotted hemming stitch works beautifully on lightweight fabrics when you need a secure hold without bulk. It’s strong enough for everyday wear and neat enough for decorative finishes.

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The Close Hemming Stitch is a stitch that catches the fabric with a tiny bite, closely spaced stitches.

The best part?

It’s nearly invisible from the front. It is perfect when you want a clean, discreet finish. It is a finer, more delicate version of a standard hemming stitch. It’s a great choice for formalwear or any project where you want the hem to stay secure without being seen!

The close hemming stitch creates an invisible finish on the front side, perfect for formal garments and delicate fabrics.

Unlike traditional hemming stitches that slant diagonally across the fabric, the Vertical Hemstitch moves straight up and down. The stitches run vertically along the hem, making it a very common and useful sewing stitch

And it’s mostly used for hemming stretchy fabrics with a vertical stitch pattern, allowing the fabric to stretch.

In this method, you must pick up just a few threads of the garment before passing behind the folded hem for the next stitch. That’s why the vertical hemming stitch is famous for its hem.

When you sew carefully with matching thread, it almost blends into the fabric, creating a neat and polished appearance. This stitch is especially great for hemming lined garments, delicate fabrics, or spots where you prefer the stitches to be barely visible.

It leaves only tiny, almost undetectable stitches on the front. That’s why the slip hem stitch is also called blind hem stitch. This stitch is perfect for delicate fabrics, formal wear, and any project that requires a clean, seamless finish. Some stitchers also call it a blind stitch hem.

It is mostly used for creating an invisible hem on delicate fabrics, often in hand-sewn hems.

This technique is often used for silk scarves, chiffon, handkerchiefs, and other lightweight fabrics where a clean, elegant finish is needed.

1. The stitches are so small and close together that they’re almost impossible to see from the front.
2. Instead of folding, the fabric is carefully rolled between your fingers before stitching.

That’s why the Hand-Rolled Hem Stitch is used for lightweight fabrics like silk, creating a neat, rolled edge.

A faced hem is a hemming technique where a separate piece of fabric, known as a facing, is used to finish the bottom edge of a garment.

The facing is sewn to the fabric first. Then, it is turned up and stitched in place, creating a smooth, structured finish.

It’s used to finish the inside of a hem with a tidy, enclosed edge, often for heavier fabrics.

This method helps reduce bulk and keeps the shape of the hem. It is perfect for curved hems, thick fabrics, and garments that require extra structure. The stitches are usually small and discreet. It provides the hem with a clean, professional appearance.

Rather than simply folding and stitching the hem, this method “binds” the edge. It’s especially great for curved edges like necklines and armholes, where a regular hem might not sit evenly. Additionally, it improves durability fabric.

Depending on the fabric and binding choice. It can blend seamlessly or add a contrast trim for a stylish touch.

You’ll often see it as a thin, neatly stitched edge along the hem, sometimes with a slight ridge where the binding wraps around the fabric.

It’s mostly used when I want some narrow effect on the hem of lightweight fabrics like lace or tulle.

It gives fabric edges a clean, refined finish. At the same time, it can be sewn by hand. The edge is usually folded twice into a tiny roll and then stitched down. This is why a narrow hemstitch is also called a Pin Hemstitch.

It provides a smooth, nearly invisible finish, making it perfect for scarves, formal dresses, and delicate garments that want a sleek look.

The Felled Hemming Stitch is a stitch that works by passing the needle through the folded edge of the fabric. It creates a strong, nearly invisible seam hidden within the fold.

It is mainly used to attach a lining to a hem. It is great that the stitches stay hidden on the outside since the needle doesn’t go through all the fabric layers.

On the inside, you’ll see neat, straight stitches holding everything in place. It’s a subtle yet effective way to achieve a clean, professional finish without visible stitching on the garment. This makes it perfect for hemming clothes when you don’t want visible stitches on the outside. That’s why the felled hem stitch is mainly used in jeans.

A piped hemstitch is a stitch that looks like a pipe around your fabric. This is a stitch where a thin strip of piping fabric is inserted into the hem to create a crisp finish.

This is the perfect Decorative hem stitch by hand.

Instead of a plain finish, this method adds subtle yet stylish detail. It gives garments a more refined and structured look. It adds piping or decorative trim to hems, providing a stylish, raised edge.

This hemming stitch is perfect for dresses, skirts, blouses, and even home décor projects like cushion covers or table linens. It works exceptionally well when you want to highlight the hemline or add a touch of contrast with a different fabric or colour. 

A double-fold hem stitch is often used for thicker fabrics; it creates a reinforced double-fold hem that is both sturdy and tidy. This completely conceals the raw edge, preventing fraying and giving the hem a clean, polished look.

Instead of just one fold, you’re making two small folds, which makes the hem look neater and more durable.

Typically used in pants or sleeves because it provides a clean, professional finish to cuffs by folding and stitching them neatly.

This method adds weight and durability. It’s ideal for pants, sleeves, and skirts where you want a defined, polished appearance. It’s frequently used in casual and tailored clothing to achieve a neat finish while allowing for easy alterations later.

Every type of hem has its special moment to shine, and finding the right one depends on the occasion. I understand it can be tricky to remember or figure out which to use, so I’ve prepared this helpful PDF just for you.

Best Stitch For Hemming By Hand

Now we’ve covered all the types of hemstitches. When I was learning, one question kept popping into my mind: ‘What is the best stitch for hemstitch?’

After all that research, I didn’t want to overcomplicate it. So I just called my grandma. She said, ‘It really depends on what you’re working on. But if I had to pick just one, I’d say the slip stitch is the best choice.’

Why is the slip stitch the best all-rounder?

It’s nearly invisible from the outside, so your hem looks clean and professional. Best of all, it works on almost any fabric, from delicate silks to heavier wools.

Now, don’t get me wrong—other stitches have their place. A rolled hem is lovely for lightweight fabrics, and a felled hem gives extra strength. But if you just need a reliable stitch that looks nice and holds up well, listen to Grandma: go with the slip stitch.”

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

That’s a wrap on all the different types of hemming stitches by hand! Each hem has its own perfect stitch to match, so picking the right stitch for the right hem makes all the difference.

There’s a hemming stitch, whether you’re going for an invisible, decorative, or super-secure finish. So, grab your needle, choose your stitch, and enjoy bringing your sewing project to life!

Please feel free to leave a comment and tell me your favourite, or ask me a question about your hemming stitches.