Overlock stitch is fun, fast, and oh-so-secure. But let’s be real—not all of us have a fancy serger sitting in our sewing corner. So, does that mean you’re out of luck if you don’t own one?
Absolutely not! You can still rock that neat, professional finish using a mock overlock stitch—yes, with your regular sewing machine.
Sounds too good to be true? I get it. You’re probably squinting at the screen right now thinking, “No way.” But trust me, it’s real—and it works. 💁♀️
Here’s how:
To do a mock overlock stitch, simply switch your machine to a zigzag or overlock-style stitch, align it along the edge of your fabric, and sew away. You’ve just faked an overlock finish without the actual serger.
Still not convinced? I think so. 😉 That’s why I’m showing you a step-by-step demo in today’s lesson. Let’s turn that disbelief into a “Wait—why didn’t I try this sooner?” moment.
At a glance:
- Mock overlock stitch is a technique to mimic overlock.
- Yes you can overlock without serger\overlocker stitch.
- You need overedge stitch presser foot to mimic overlock
Table of Contents
What Is A Mock Overlock Stitch?
A mock overlock stitch is a technique to imitate the look of a true overlock stitch (like one made by a serger machine) but created using a regular sewing machine. It’s basically doing over lock stitch without a serger. You can use this trick on a Brother sewing machine, too.
Since not everyone has a serger or overlock machine, this stitch provides a way to achieve a finished edge appearance and some stretch or strength without specialized equipment. This is kinda like flatlock stitch and overlock.
Can You Do An Overlock Stitch On A Regular Sewing Machine?
No, you can’t do a true overlock stitch on a regular sewing machine because it doesn’t trim the fabric or loop the threads like a serger does. But there are some alternative ways. Another alternative is mock stitch.
Today I am showing you exactly how you can do it.
Let’s Do A Mock Overlock Stitch On Regular Sewing Machine
So to do a mock over lock stitch on a basic sewing machine, follow the 5 steps,
I Switch to the Right Presser Foot
Now I look at my presser foot situation. If I have an overcast foot, I definitely use it here. It usually has a little metal bar or brush in the center that guides the stitch and helps the edge stay flat as I sew.
I snap it onto my machine. But if I don’t have one, no big deal—
I just stick with my all-purpose zigzag foot. It still gets the job done. I just need to guide the fabric more carefully and make sure it doesn’t veer off or curl under the foot. The foot doesn’t have to be fancy.
But if I have the right one, it makes the whole stitch look way more professional, like a cover stitch.
I Adjust The Stitch Width And Length For Control Of Mock Over Lock
I usually set the width to about 4 or 5 mm, wide enough to swing over the edge but not so wide that it looks messy. The length typically ranges from around 2.0 to 2.5 mm, which provides the stitch with sufficient strength without crowding the fabric.
But,
If I’m using a built-in overcast stitch, the machine might automatically adjust the settings, but I still double-check.
I Line Up My Fabric with Accuracy
Now it’s time to place the fabric under the needle. I position the raw edge around ⅕ inch so that the right swing of the needle will fall just off the edge, not too far. But just enough to let the thread wrap around the fabric without missing it like double overlock.
If I’m using an overcasting foot, I let the raw edge rest right against the guide bar in the center. That bar helps me keep the stitch lined up so the loops always wrap the edge just right.
I Sew Slowly and Keep the Edge Aligned
I go slow and steady, guiding the fabric along the edge while making sure the stitches stay even.
As I sew, I observe the raw edge to ensure the needle swings over it without pulling the fabric too far to one side.
Guide The Fabric
I use both hands gently—one guiding from the front and the other lightly from behind—to keep things straight without stretching the fabric. I also keep an ear out for any strange sounds or jumped stitches.
Which could mean I need to re-thread or adjust the tension. If my fabric starts curling, I stop, lift the presser foot, and realign. Sewing slowly gives me control and makes the stitch look smooth and tight, just like an overlock.
Lift The Presser Foot And Pull The Fabric Out
Once I reach the end of the fabric, I lift the presser foot, gently pull the fabric out, and trim the threads. I take a close look at the seam. It should have a nice zigzag or looped finish that wraps the raw edge and keeps it from fraying.
Then I grab my iron and give the seam a quick press. Pressing flattens the stitches into the fabric and makes everything look more polished
It’s that final touch that really makes it look like I used a serger, even though it was all done on my regular sewing machine. See can you tell them apart? I don’t think so.
What Is A Substitute For An Overlock Stitch?
I have shown you only one way to mock but there are some more alternative ways to do overlock if you don’t have serger. For intense,
- Pinked Seams
- Zig zag stitch
- Turn & Stitch (aka Clean Finish)
- French Seams
- Bound Edges
You can try those if you are too lazy to mock it.
If you wanna learn more about it then watch this video,
How to Finish Raw Edges Without An Overlocker or Serger | Zig Zag and Overlock Stitch Tutorial
Frequently Asked Questions
What stitch should I use on my regular sewing machine to mimic an overlock?
The most common stitches are the zigzag stitch or a built-in overcasting stitch, which is designed specifically to mimic overlock seams.
Do I need a special presser foot for mock overlock stitching?
It’s helpful but not necessary. An overcasting foot guides the fabric edge and helps keep the stitch neat, but you can also do this with a regular zigzag foot by carefully guiding the fabric.
What fabrics work best for mock overlock stitching?
Mock overlock stitching works well on woven and knit fabrics—especially those that may fray or stretch, like cotton, polyester blends, or jersey knits.
Conclusion
And just like that, I’ve got a professional-looking edge that won’t fray and holds up beautifully in the wash. It may not be a true overlock. But it looks great and gets the job done.
Best of all? I didn’t need a fancy machine—
I did it all with the tools I already had. Whether I’m finishing seams on a dress or tidying up the inside of a tote bag, this method saves time and adds that polished, “store-bought” touch I love.
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