A student stared at my embroidery piece for about 5 minutes, confused. Then ask me, ‘What is this? It kinda looks like chain stitch, but again slightly different?’
I said it’s reverse chain stitch. It is basically a chain stitch but in reverse form. Honestly,, if you look closely, then reverse chain stitch looks like knitting. The fun fact is it is much faster than regular. I know it looks complicated, but it’s not that hard. You just need to do,
Reverse Chain
To do a reverse chain stitch, start by bringing the needle up through the fabric, then insert it slightly forward and back up through the end of the previous loop, catching the thread to form each link.
She looked so hooked on my description that I demonstrated it to the whole class.
Main points:
- It is basically the reverse version of chain-stitch.
- Reserve chain-stitch is faster than regular chainstitch.
- You can do it within 5 steps.
Table of Contents
Reverse Chain Stitch Vs Chain Stitch
I can see there is confusion between both stitches. So, I decided to clear that out 1st. Mainly,
Chain stitch is worked forward by looping into the previous stitch, while reverse chain stitch is worked backward by looping through a newly formed loop.
Rather than that, there are more factors. For intense,
| Factors | Chain Stitch | Reverse Chain Stitch |
| Starting Point | Left to right (standard direction) | Right to left (reverse flow) |
| Stitch Formation | The needle goes forward through previous loop | Needle goes backward, looping from behind |
| Ease of Control | Can be tricky on curves | Easier to manage on tight curves or turns |
| Visual Texture | Chainstitch looks Smooth, classic embroidery look | Looks slightly more like knitting |
| Stitching Flow | Pulls thread through previous stitch loop | Anchors each loop with a forward wrap |
| Best For | Borders, outlines, floral motifs | Knitted effect, textures, detailed elements |
| Thread Tension Sensitivity | Needs consistent tension to avoid gaps | More forgiving with tension adjustments |
| Beginner Friendly? | Yes, but can get messy at first | Yes, and often easier for first-timers |
My Take:
I use both! Chain-stitch is a classic, but reverse chain gives me more control, especially when I want that slightly raised, knit-style finish. It’s also been a lifesaver when filling in shapes where standard chains just won’t sit right just like twisted chain stitch.
How To Do The Reverse Chain Stitch?
I must say reverse chain stitch might just be my go-to when I want a textured, knit-like look. It looks just like the classic chain stitch, but I personally find it easier to work with. Here’s exactly how I do it:
I Start from the Right Side
This is the first little twist. I don’t begin from the left like usual; I start on the right end of the line I’m stitching with 2 stands of perle cotton thread and a 5 size needle.
I bring my needle up through the fabric from the back to the front where I want the first chain link to begin.
I hold the floss with my non-dominant hand to control tension and keep things smooth. Make sure your thread isn’t twisted. It’ll help keep your loops even and clean. That’s what is stitches is for right?
Make a Tiny Loop (Don’t Pull All the Way!)
Now it gets fun.
I insert the needle back down just a 1\2 millimeters to the left of that first hole—close, but not in the same spot. I don’t pull the thread all the way through! Instead, I leave a small loop.
Then, insert the needle from behind the fabric, put the loop into the needle, and pull it up.
How big should the loop be?
Just big enough to slip your needle back through comfortably. Around 2–4mm is usually perfect for reverse chain stitches and detached chain stitches.
Anchor the Loop
To secure that loop and form your first stitch:
- I move a bit to the left (about 5mm) and bring my needle up through the fabric.
- Slide the needle under the 1st chain hook.
- I pull the thread gently so the floss wraps snugly around the loop, anchoring it in place.
And that’s your first reverse chain stitch done.
But wait,
Don’t tug too hard. A gentle tension creates that lovely rounded chain look. Too tight? It’ll bunch up. Too loose? It’ll flop around.
Push Needle Again In 2nd Stitch Line
Now again, put the needle through the second line I made for the anchor. Great, you have your second chain anchor.
Now just follow the rhythm. For the next stitch:
- Insert the needle just above the previous anchor point (where you secured the loop).
- Leave a new loop just like before.
- Bring your needle back up 5mm ahead along your stitching line, inside the loop.
- Pull gently to secure it—and repeat.
You’ll start seeing a beautiful, knit-like chain forming right under your fingers. It’s honestly so satisfying.
Spacing Tip: I often eyeball it, but you can lightly mark the line every 5mm with a water-soluble pen for extra precision.
Closing Off the Final Stitch
When I reach the end of my line. I finish the last loop just like the others, but then make one final stitch outside of any loop to secure everything.
I bring the needle to the back and tie off the thread securely underneath with a tiny knot or loop finish. Done! The line looks like it’s been crocheted onto the fabric. Gorgeous and textured.
Reverse Chain Stitch Diagram For Beginners
I know image guidelines are better than all those instructions. Honestly, those instructions keep us thinking about what to do next. I knew the struggle, so I made a diagram for my sewing inspo readers.
Reverse Chain Stitch Video
Another easy way to learn is video instruction. I don’t like my readers to hang in, so here’s the GetStitchDone tutorial. It will surely give you a clear path.
How to do a reverse chain stitch – easy embroidery tutorial for beginners
Reverse Chain Stitch Patterns
This stitch is the most fasted of all types of stitches. So, I don’t stop at the 1\2 pattern. I made a few of them. Here have a look,
Reverse Chain Stitch Lettering
This stitch is more convenient for later stitching. If you want to stitch your loved one name and surprise them, then this stitch is your best catch.
Frequently Asked Questions
What Is Reverse Chain Stitch Used For?
It’s perfect for creating textured outlines, and borders, or for mimicking a knitted effect in embroidery designs.
Is Reverse Chain Stitch Easier Than Regular Chain Stitch?
Many stitchers find it easier since each loop is formed with better control, making the stitches look more even.
What Needle Should I Use For Reverse Chain Stitch?
A sharp embroidery needle, usually size 6–8 for medium fabrics and 10–12 for finer fabrics.
Now It’s Your Turn
After I teach them reverse chain stitch, I ask them to do one and show me. Honestly, each one turned out so good. Wanna see them? If so, I will add some of their work to the comment section.
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