I absolutely adore chain stitch. Its formation looks so good in embroidery. But I am a curious child 😜 I love experimenting with stitches, so I wondered if there is a way to do thick chain stitch. How to make a chain stitch thicker?
While digging, I found a heavy chain stitch. It is a bold and textured variation of the basic chain stitch. How is it done? Well, that’s easy too. For example,
Heavy Chain
To do a heavy chain stitch, make a regular chain stitch but add an extra anchoring stitch inside each loop to create a thicker, raised effect.
Just that little thing won’t satisfy my curiosity. So I need to learn more about it. So dig deeper into what is a heavy chain stitch & how it works.
Main facts:
- Heavy chain stitch is a thicker, more textured version of the classic chain stitch.
- Start with a small straight stitch to anchor your first chain.
- Each new loop passes under the previous two chain stitches.
- You can stitch in any direction, just keep it consistent.

Table of Contents
Heavy Chain Stitch Definition
Heavy chain stitch is like the bold, chunky cousin of the regular chain stitch. This is why it’s also called thick chain stitch. It’s a thicker, more textured version gives your embroidery a nice raised effect.
It is perfect for bold outlines or filling in areas you want to stand out. If you want your stitch to make a statement, this one’s it!
Heavy Chain Stitch Patterns
Sounds interesting? It looks more interesting, too.
It’s easier than whipped chain stitch but looks as good as it is. Here is how it looks on a fabric.
Heavy Chain Stitch Vs Chain Stitch
You must feel lost if you hear about thick chain stitch embroidery for the first time. You must be thinking, ‘What’s so different about it & regular chain stitch? One is done single stands the other must be 6 stands.
But hate to break it to you,
That’s not how it works. They are both pretty different. For intense,
Feature | Chain Stitch | Heavy Chain Stitch |
Appearance | Light, delicate loops | Thicker, bolder loops are more than a twisted version. |
Texture | Flat and smooth | Raised, textured, rope-like |
Thread Used | 1–3 strands of embroidery floss | 4–6 strands or thicker thread |
Best For | Outlines, lettering, small fills | Bold outlines, decorative borders, standout work |
Difficulty | Beginner-friendly | Slightly more advanced but still doable |
Look & Feel | Neat, elegant | Strong, dramatic |
Heavy Chain Stitch Tutorial
After knowing so much about it, I couldn’t stop trying it. So here I am with thread, needle, and fabric ready to stitch. 😎
Start With a Tiny Straight Stitch
Begin by securing your fabric in a hoop (6″ hoop is a popular size for control). Thread your chainstitch needle with 2–3 strands of embroidery floss.
Then,
I’m working left to right. First, I bring my needle up through the fabric and make a tiny straight stitch right on my line. This will act as an anchor for the rest of the chain.
Come Up a Little Ahead
Move about 1/4 inch (6–7mm) down the line. Bring your needle up and pass it underneath the straight stitch (without going through the fabric).
Then, return to the hole you came through to complete your first chain loop. Gently pull the working thread to form a neat, snug loop—too tight, and it’ll bunch, too loose and it will gap.
Pro Tip: 2 strands give a sleeker finish, 3–4 strands result in a bolder, rope-like look, kinda like cable stitch.
Slide Under the Anchor Stitch
I take the needle and slide it underneath that first straight stitch I made, without picking up any fabric. Then I gently pull the thread to tighten the loop into shape.
Keep your spacing even—aim for 6–8mm between stitches. Use a ruler or washable pen to mark for precision if needed.
Go Down the Same Hole
Once the loop is nice and snug, I take the needle down into the same hole I just came out of. There it is—my first chain!
Then push the needle back in from behind, giving 1-inch gap between 1st stitch.
Slide The Needle In Through Anchor Stitch
Pass under the anchor stitch again and then down into the same hole. So now you have two chain stitches there. Now I’ll come up a little ways down the line. Now I will take the needle behind both of those chain stitches.
So I’m going underneath the two chain stitches without picking up any fabric
Repeat the Process
I move down a bit on the line and come up again with my needle. I pass the needle underneath the previous anchor (or straight) stitch.
Then, I go down into the same hole. That gives me my second chain.
Start Passing Under Two Chains
Now that I’ve completed a couple of chains, I’ve come up further down the line.
This time, I pass the needle under the last two chain stitches, not catching the fabric. Then I go back down into the same hole, but in the reverse direction.
Continue the Pattern
I keep going! Come ahead, pass under the last two stitches, pull through, and go back down.
That’s what gives it that braided, raised look. These steps remind me of lock stitch.
Ending the Stitch
When I’m finishing up, I come close to the last stitch to avoid long thread tails. Then, I pass the needle under the last two chains again and return to the same hole.
Pull it gently to tidy up, and boom—done! I’ve got a beautiful, braided-looking, heavy chain stitch line! The whole process kinda looks like this,
Heavy Chain Stitch Pdf
Did you love it but forget a few steps while stitching? Then download this PDF and take a peek whenever you feel like it.
Heavy Chain Stitch Embroidery
I fell in love with it in a way that I wouldn’t stop making designs with it. So here’s how it turned out,
Frequently Asked Questions
What Is A Heavy Chain Stitch Used For?
A heavy chain stitch is great for bold outlines, decorative borders, and areas where you want a raised, textured effect. It looks beautiful in floral stems, lettering, and framework. This can even be used as a bookbinding chain stitch.
Can Beginners Try This Stitch?
Yes! It might look complex, but once you master the first few steps, it becomes rhythmic and easy to follow. Just go slow and keep your tension even.
What Kind Of Thread Should I Use?
You can use 2 to 6 strands of embroidery floss, depending on how thick and bold you want your stitch to appear. Pearl cotton also works great for an even more pronounced effect.
Outro
Heavy chain stitch is surprisingly simple once you get the hang of it, and honestly, super satisfying to work on. This stitch makes your work pop, whether you’re outlining a leaf, creating flower stems, or adding flair to a border.
I hope you try it and fall in love with it just like I did. Happy stitching! 😊✨
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