What Is A French Tack Stitch? A Complete Introduction With Steps

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Randomly, I picked a cloth from Grandma’s sewing table to see its stitches. I saw a stitch holding the fabric layer as I turned the cloth. It looks like a bar tack stitch but insists on being in cloth; it links fabric. I was like, what is that? 😕 So, I asked Grandma, and she said it is a French tack stitch.

I got more curious and asked again what types of stitches it was. And how to do it. She said,

French Tack Stitch

A French tack stitch is a loose, looped hand stitch used to connect fabric layers or linings with flexibility. To make a French tack stitch, anchor the thread at two points, then weave loose, looped stitches back and forth between them until firm.

Interesting right? Yes, it is! So, then, let’s learn it in more detail.

At A Glance:

  1. French tack is a loose stitch.
  2. It is used to link 2 fabrics.
  3. You can even create patterns using French tack.
French Tack Stitch

What Is a French Tacking Stitch?

A French tack stitch is a neat and subtle way to join 2 pieces of fabric with a small thread loop. It is often used to connect linings to garments without pulling or distorting the fabric. It is also called a thread chain or chain tack.

What Is a French Tacking Stitch

Even though French tack and chain tack are used as synonyms, they’re quite different. The stitching technique is the same, but in chain tack, the knots are like chains.

French tack looks like a small, delicate thread loop connecting two fabric pieces. It’s like a tiny bridge made of thread. Because it’s made up of just a few threads, it’s almost invisible, blending in with the fabric. It’s a fun stitch from a list of sewing stitches.

French Tack and Chain Tack

The loop is loose enough to allow movement between the fabric layers but tight enough to keep them connected. It’s usually found inside garments, like between a skirt and its lining, where it won’t be seen but keeps everything in place neatly.

What Is A French Tack Stitch Used For?

A French tack stitch is often used inside garments, like dresses or skirts, to attach the lining to the outer fabric without restricting the movement of the fabric.

What Is A French Tack Stitch Used For

This stitch helps keep everything in place without pulling or bunching the fabric. This type of tacking stitch is great for securing areas like hems or adding a little support in spots where a regular seam might be too bulky or stiff. 

How To Make A French Tack?

To make French tack sewing, follow through 8 steps:

  1. Push The Needle From 1 Inch Of Hem
  2. Take A Small Stitch Into The Other Fabric Layer
  3. Roll The Thread Down
  4. Take Another Small Stitch
  5. Reinforce French Tack Stitch
  6. Create A Series Of Knots 
  7. Form A Knot
  8. Tie Off French Tack Stitch
How To Make A French Tack

Project overview:

SkillTimeTool
Professional2-4 Minutes24 inch needle and tapestry needle

Push The Needle From 1 Inch Of Hem

Push the needle with Use about 24 inches of thread to make your first stitch about 1 inch from the top of the hem. The exact spot isn’t too important, just long & short tacking stitches.

Place it near the bottom of the hem, which works fine. Pull the thread through so the knot stays hidden on the back. Leave a 1-2 inch thread tail showing on the right side of your garment.

Push The Needle From 1 Inch Of Hem

Note: You can use 4-stand threads or double your thread to use it.

Take A Small Stitch Into The Other Fabric Layer

Next, take a small stitch into the other fabric layer, creating a gap about ½  long between the 2 layers. Once you have that, wrap the thread around the middle of the loop a few times to strengthen it. Make a small knot to secure everything and hide the end, kinda like Slip tacking stitch patterns.

Take A Small Stitch Into The Other Fabric Layer

After hiding the knot on the back, you will take another tiny stitch, almost like a second anchor stitch, to lock everything into place. 

Roll The Thread Down

Once that’s secure, you’ll roll the thread down gently to get the fabric where you want it. This helps ensure the stitch stays neat and positioned while you continue with the French tack. It’s all about keeping it tight and tidy without pulling too hard so the loop stays flexible and smooth.

It’s not like Tailors tacking stitch patterns. You can’t just use any size loop. You need to be specific about it.

Roll The Thread Down

What’s the perfect loop size for a French tack stitch, grandma?

Loop Size Of French Tack Stitch

Well, in general, a 2–3 inches (5–7.6 cm) loop size is perfect for French tack.

But it depends on the fabric edge distance you are working on.

However, 2 inch loop size works perfectly for me.

Take Another Small Stitch

Take another small stitch, keeping it reasonably close to the first one. This stitch should be tiny, and you’re pulling it through the fabric.

Take Another Small Stitch

It kinda reminds you of Even tacking stitch images, right? It is but don’t think they’re the same and pull it tightly.

Remember, you don’t want the lining to be tightly attached. You want to give it some breathing room so it can move freely.

When you pull the thread through, just keep your finger in place to guide the space, ensuring there’s about 1 inch of thread between the 2 layers. That’s your first stitch.

Reinforce French Tack Stitch

So, after your first stitch, you’re returning to the same area, making the stitch as tiny as possible. Place stitches about ½ inch apart and pull the thread.

Reinforce French Tack Stitch

When you pull the thread through, you keep your finger underneath to ensure it doesn’t get pulled too tight.

Pro Tip: Tight but not too tight. You want some flexibility.

This way, you’ll still have that bit of flexibility. Then, you’ll grab some of the fabric again, work in the same spot, and repeat this process multiple times to create a thicker strand across. After going around about 4 times, you should have a nice, decent-sized strand.

Should I constantly repeat stitching 4 times to reinforce French stitch sewing?

Well, it’s not fixed. You can repeat the stitch 2 or 4 times, too, but repeating 4 times makes French tack more stable.

Repeat stitching to reinforce french stitch

You don’t need to tie a knot yet — you’re still working with the same thread, reinforcing the tack!

Create A Series Of Knots

Create a series of knots that will travel up. You’ve already started at the bottom, and it doesn’t matter where you begin as long as you keep going in the same direction. Since it feels more comfortable.

Create A Series Of Knots

You must take your thread at the base and bring your needle up and over to the opposite side. This creates a nice, secure knot.

Remember to keep everything in place so your stitches stay tidy as you work. It’s all about building those knots consistently as you move upward! 

Form A Knot

To Form A Knot while holding everything in your right hand, slide your needle under all 4 strands of thread. Once you do that, pull it up and over to create a loop. As you slowly pull the thread through, you should see it forming a nice knot at the bottom.

Form A Knot

Hold the fabric steady in your right hand to repeat the process. Bring your needle to the side, sliding it under the strands and then over your right thread.

As you pull the thread, you’re creating another knot. It’s all about keeping a steady hand and ensuring those knots are nice and tight but not too tight. It allows for some flexibility. Keep going, and you’ll have a beautiful line of knots! Like a diagonal tack stitch.

How many knots do I need to make, Grandma? 

Well, around 12 knots is a good rule of thumb.

So, while holding the fabric with your right hand, your left hand can bring the needle under and over the right loop, slowly pulling it through. 

Remember not to pull too hard; you want it tight but not so tight that it looks messy. If you notice one of your knots looks loose, don’t hesitate to pull it out and redo it to keep everything neat.

Tie Off French Tack Stitch

Once you’ve added all your knots to the lining fabric and are satisfied with its appearance, it’s time to tie it off. Grab a bit of the seam from your lining, ensuring you don’t poke through to the main fabric so it stays hidden.

Tie Off French Tack Stitch

Create a little loop with your thread, go through that loop, and tie a knot. For extra security, tie it 2 times. Bring your needle through the loop again, and you’ll have a nice, secure finish to your French tack!

And that’s it. You have a French tack stitch.

Lastly, grandma said-

Every stitch tells a story. With each French tack, you’re not just sewing; you’re weaving together layers of creativity and craftsmanship.

Watch The Tutorial

If you still want a visual guide, then watch this

French Tack Stitch Patterns

Honestly, it is kinda tricky to stitch as a beginner. However, practice makes everything easy. So, after learning from Grandma, I kept practicing and used this in various patterns. Such as:

French Tack Stitch Patterns
  1. Hems: French tacks are perfect for securing hems, especially in lightweight fabrics. They keep the hem flexible and prevent it from distorting, which is crucial for a polished finish.
  2. Gathering Fabric: I often use French tack stitches to gather fabric at the waist or sleeves. They create a soft, controlled gathering without adding bulk, making my garments look neat and tailored.
  3. Embellishments: I’ve also incorporated French tacks as embellishments on quilts and other decorative sewing projects. They add visual interest without overpowering the design, which I love.
  4. Creating Loops for Buttons or Hooks: I’ve also used French tacks to create small loops for buttons or hooks. They provide a neat finish and ensure the garment functions properly, making them my go-to technique.

Frequently Asked Questions(FAQ’s)

How Many Knots Should I Make?

Typically, you can aim for about 10 to 12 knots for a nice, sturdy hold, but it can vary based on your project.

Can I Use French Tack Stitch On Any Fabric?

Yes, a French tack can be used on various fabrics, but it works best on lighter materials like silk or cotton, where you want a subtle and flexible finish.

How Do I Know If My Tack Is Too Tight?

If the fabric feels stiff or the stitches are pulling, it’s likely too tight. You want the fabric to move freely while still being secured.

Can I Remove A French Tack Stitch If I Need To?

Yes, you can carefully pull out the stitches if you need to adjust or redo it. Just be gentle to avoid damaging the fabric.

Sum up

I thanked my grandma for teaching me French tack stitch and left. But I promised to brother her again if I needed to learn something new. 😜

I know she won’t be brother much cause she has always been my sewing inspiration and always will be.

Maisha Soumee

Maisha Soumee

Hi there! I’m Maisha Soumee, the proud torchbearer of our family’s sewing legacy and the driving force behind this website. With Grandma Manha’s teachings as my foundation, I’m honored to continue the tradition of craftsmanship and creativity. As a passionate seamstress, I’m dedicated to sharing the joy of sewing with you, our valued community.

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