So, a few weeks ago, I saw my friend wearing this really pretty, simple, flowy cape, and honestly, she looked amazing in it. It wasn’t flashy or over-the-top.
But it had this effortless vibe that made me think, Why don’t I justmake one myself? At first I thought, how hard is it going wanna be? I mean, all I gotta do is-
Cape Pattern
To sew an easy cape pattern, simply cut your fabric into a semi-circle, finish the edges, add a neckline opening, and attach a clasp or tie for closure.
But no! There is more to the story. You had to get the measurement done right to get the right. So I thought it’s better to take notes.
Let’s teach you how to make a cape step by step.
Table of Contents
What Fabric Is Best For A Cape?
If you’re making a cape, the best fabric really depends on the look and feel you want, like waffle. But generally, you’ll want something with a nice drape that still holds its shape. The best kind of fabric for capes is-
- Wool
- Fleece
- Cotton
But personally, I like using wool-blend fabric best for a cape. It’s warm, soft, and gives the cape that elegant flow without being too heavy. It is kind of the perfect balance if you ask me.
How Much Fabric To Make A Cape?
The amount of fabric you’ll need for a cape really depends on its length, size, and how full you want it to be.
As a general guide, plan for about 1.5 to 3 yards for a child’s cape and 2 to 5+ yards for an adult’s cape. If you’re going for a floor-length, dramatic cape, you may need 4 to 7 yards, while a shorter or simpler cape will take much less.
To calculate the fabric size, measure from the neck to where you want the cape to end (that’s your length).
Then, decide how full you want it. Maybe a half-circle cape needs less fabric, while a full-circle cape needs more. You can use this simple formula to estimate:
Cape radius = (desired length + neckline radius)
Once you have that, make sure your fabric width covers the radius twice (since it’s folded). It’s always safer to get an extra half yard.
Cause honestly, capes love to surprise you with how much fabric they eat up!
How To Do The Cape Pattern Sewing?
To do cape pattern sewing, follow the steps below-
- Take 1.50 Mm Fabric Layout
- Measure The Neckline And Calculate The Neck Radius
- Draw And Cut The Neckline Curve
- Mark The Cape Length And Draw The Outer Curve
- Cut The Front Opening
- Attach Bias Binding
- Sewing the Cape Together
- Place The Lining Piece Over The Main Fabric
- Sew The Buttons In Place
- Final Pressing And Finishing Touches
Take 1.50 Mm Fabric Layout
I start by laying my 1.50 m × 1.50 m piece of fabric flat on the table. The selvage (the non-fraying edge from the bolt) runs along the length of the roll.
That’s the “lengthwise” direction we’ll treat as grain, like a crocodile pattern.
I fold the fabric in half lengthwise, bringing the two long selvages together, then fold it again across the width so I have four layers stacked.
Now I find the corner where both folds meet. That corner with two fold lines is my reference point for all the circle marks I’m about to make.
Measure The Neckline And Calculate The Neck Radius
I measure my neck, it’s 35 cm. I decide how much front overlap I want, then add it to the neck measurement.
I figured out I want 2 cm, so the working neck measurement becomes 37 cm.
To turn that into the radius for the circular neckline, I divide by 2π (two times pi). So 37 cm ÷ 6.283 ≈ 5.9 cm, which I round to 6 cm.
I take a tape measure and mark 6 cm out from the folded corner along both folded edges so I can draw a smooth inner curve that will be the neckline.
Draw And Cut The Neckline Curve
From the folded-corner reference, I gently mark a quarter-circle with a 6 cm radius. I do this by measuring point by point or using a small compass/cord.
I make sure the marks sit on the folded layers, so when I cut, I’ll get a circular neckline through all four layers.
I cut along that curve carefully; when I unfold the fabric, I get a neat circular opening that will be the neck hole.
Mark The Cape Length And Draw The Outer Curve
With the neckline done, I decide how long I want the cape to fall. I used 66 cm (the maximum length her fabric allowed).
From the same folded-corner reference, I measure out the desired length (66 cm) and mark the folds.
I join those marks with a smooth outer curve parallel to the neckline curve. This outer curve becomes the hemline of the cape. I check symmetry, then cut along that curve through all layers.
Cut The Front Opening (Neck Slit)
To create the cape opening in front, I cut along one of the fold edges at the top, where there are two folded layers (the corner that had two folds). It’s kinda like a block sewing pattern.
I open just enough to form the front opening. The length of this slit depends on how wide you want the shoulder/neck overlap to be; follow the video’s placement, which begins at the top fold and runs down a comfortable amount.
This will leave the other side of the fold intact, so the cape can wrap and overlap in front.
Finish Raw Edges To Stop Fraying
Before doing any decorative finishing, I tidy all raw edges to prevent fraying. I either run the edges through a serger (overlocker) or sew a close zigzag along the raw edges.
I do this around the neckline, front slit, and hemline. Removing fray now saves so much fuss later, especially with fabrics that unravel easily. I use this for skirt stitching patterns.
Attach Bias Binding (How I Apply The Bias Tape)
Now it’s time to finish those raw edges neatly. I take a long strip of bias tape, about 7 meters for a full cape. But you can measure around your neckline, front, and hem to be sure. I open the bias tape and place it right sides together with the edge of my cape.
Starting a few centimeters away from the corner, I pin or clip it all around, following the curves carefully.
Then, I sew along the fold of the bias tape using a straight stitch. When I reach a corner, I fold the bias diagonally to make a neat turn. It’s kind of like making a little triangle fold and keep sewing.
Once I’ve gone all the way around, I fold the bias to the inside of the cape and topstitch close to the edge.
This hides all the raw edges and gives the cape a clean, professional finish. If the ends meet, I just overlap them slightly and stitch down to blend it in.
Try On And Mark Overlap And Button Placement
I put the cape on and decide how much front overlap I want. With the cape on, I pinch the fabric to the desired overlap and insert a pin where I want the top button to sit.
I place additional pins where I want other buttons.
Place the first button about 2 cm from the bias edge and use that intersection as the starting reference for buttonholes. I mark these positions clearly while the cape is on the body so the fit is exactly how I want it.
Sewing the Cape Together
Now that the edges are all neat and finished, it’s time to actually sew the cape together. I start by laying the two front edges evenly, right sides facing out.
Since this cape doesn’t have many seams, the main stitching happens around the neckline and shoulder area to shape it slightly.
I line up the neckline edges and, using a 1 cm seam allowance, sew a straight line along the shoulder curve. Just enough to give it that nice drape over the shoulders.
You don’t want it too tight, so keep your fabric relaxed while sewing.
Place The Lining Piece Over The Main Fabric
If you’re adding a lining, this is when I place the lining piece over the main fabric (right sides together), stitch around the neckline, and then turn it right side out. This makes the inside super neat.
For the front edges, I make sure they stay even and flat, then topstitch them down to secure the bias binding and add a little weight so the cape hangs nicely.
Finally, I check the hemline. If it needs a touch-up or feels uneven, like it happened to me while making taddy. I smooth it out and sew a clean topstitch all the way around for that perfect finish.
Sew The Buttons In Place
With the buttonholes made, I overlap the cape to test fit and align the buttons so they land in the center of each buttonhole.
I sew the buttons on by hand using doubled thread for strength, passing the needle up through the fabric at the button point, through the button holes several times.
Then wrap a few turns of thread under the button to form a small shank if needed, and finish with a tidy knot on the wrong side.
For heavy fabric, I tack the thread firmly so the button won’t pull off.
Final Pressing And Finishing Touches
I press the cape lightly from the wrong side with a steam iron to set the seams and smooth the bias. I use this for a diamond stitching pattern.
I trim any loose threads, inspect the inside to make sure all seams are tidy, and give the edges a final topstitch near the bias if I want a crisp finished look and extra durability.
If you plan to line the cape, now is the time to cut and sew a simple lining, then hand-sew it into the neckline and facing.
Isn’t it beautiful? It sure is. But if you miss something, then watch this video Cómo hacer una CAPA abrigo para mujer – DIY costura fácil y elegante
How To Take Measurements For A Cape?
The first step is to measure your neck and length. Wrap a measuring tape around the base of your neck where the cape will sit. This is your neckline measurement.
Then measure from your shoulder down to where you want the cape to end. The length depends on the style you want:
- For a cloak-style cape, measure down to your ankles or mid-calves for a dramatic look.
- For a caplet or short cape, measure down just past your elbows.
- For a fashion cape, a knee-length measurement is usually the most flattering.
Once you have these numbers, you can calculate the neckline radius. It will help you draw the cutting circle.
Take your neck measurement and divide it by 2, then divide that number by π (3.14). Round up to the nearest quarter inch (or half a centimeter).
This gives you the radius of the neckline, which you’ll use to mark the inner curve of your cape.
If you want your cape to have extra fullness, like a half-circle or full-circle style, add a few extra inches to the radius or make the outer curve slightly wider.
Always check your fabric width to make sure it can accommodate the radius and the length you need. Especially for long, flowing capes.
Doing these steps carefully ensures your cape will sit perfectly at the neck and drape beautifully all the way down.
Cape Pattern Sewing Pdf
Download this PDF pattern and try it out on your sewing project.
Try It On And Tweak The Fit If Needed
I put the cape on one last time. If the overlap feels too loose or too tight, I shift the button positions slightly and resew.
I check the hem length for evenness and, if anything hangs funny, I mark the spot, trim, and reapply a small section of bias there.
Once everything is right, the cape is ready to wear.
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