Here Is How I Do Twisted Chain Stitch By Hand Embroidery

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I still remember the first time I stumbled across the twisted chain stitch. I was working on a sampler and felt like something was missing. It needed more texture and more character. The regular chain stitch was lovely, but I wanted something with a bit of a “twist”

That’s when I figured out this stitch. The first time I tried it, it gave my border a bold, rope-like effect that instantly stood out. All you gotta do is,

Twisted Chain

To do a twisted chain stitch, bring the needle up through the fabric, create a loop as in a regular chain stitch, and then twist the loop once before anchoring it with the next stitch.

It’s satisfying to work and looks impressive, even though it’s surprisingly easy to do once you get the hang of it.

Let me show you how I do it…

My Twisted Chain Stitch Experience:

  1. Use thicker thread like perle cotton or 6-strand floss if you want those twists to pop. That’s why it’s used on the butterfly chain stitch pattern.
  2. Tension is everything—don’t pull too hard or the twist will flatten
  3. I find it easier to establish a rhythm after 2–3 stitches. Then, my hands know what to do.
  4. Great for stems, outlines, flower vines, and even textured borders on lettering!
Twisted Chain Stitch

Twisted Chain Stitch Definition

Twist chain stitch is a variation of the basic chain stitch in which the thread is looped under the needle in a specific way. It’s basically a chain stitch but with a twisted form.

It creates a tighter, more raised appearance, almost like a little rope. It’s often used for outlines, vines, borders, and anywhere you want a bold, textured line. It’s small version of cable chain stitch.

Twisted Chain Stitch Definition

Twisted Chain Stitch Step By Step

This stitch is so interesting that there are a few ways to do it. But let’s start with the basic one.

Let me show you,

Twisted Chain Stitch Step By Step

Bringing My Needle Up Through The Fabric From The Back To The Front

I begin by bringing my needle up through the fabric from the back to the front, exactly where I want my twisted chain stitch to begin. I gently hold the thread so it doesn’t pull through.

This is the foundation, so I like ensuring everything is smooth and ready to twist.

Bringing My Needle Up Through The Fabric From The Back To The Front

I Go Back Down Just Beside the Entry Point

Now I take the needle back down into the fabric just a hairline distance from where it came up—seriously, just a thread or 2  away.

I don’t pull it down, though, as this is important. I leave a little loop of thread resting on the surface. That’s the part that’s going to twist.

I Go Back Down Just Beside the Entry Point

Push Back The Needle In a Short Distance

Here Comes the Twist (Literally!) Before I pull the needle through,

I bring it back up through the fabric a 1-2 inch distance forward. This is where the next stitch will sit. As I do this, I pass my needle under the loop I just left, from right to left.

Push Back The Needle In a Short Distance

I continuously loop in the same direction—right to left—to keep the twist consistent and neat.

Warp The Thread Around The Needle

Now, wrap the needle around the needle tip. I gently pull the needle and thread through. As I do, the loop naturally twists into that lovely textured knot.

I gently guide it with my finger if it needs some help laying right.

Warp The Thread Around The Needle

I Anchor the Twisted Loop

Once that twisted loop looks nice and tidy, I return to the fabric just outside the loop, anchoring it firmly.

I gently press my needle down on the loop if it starts puffing up too much—it helps keep things nice and flat.

I Anchor the Twisted Loop

Ready for the Next Twist

Now I repeat the steps: I come back up a bit forward from the last stitch (how far depends on how long I want the next twist), go back down right next to that point, make the loop, bring the needle through it, and twist it again.

But remember to maintain the right gap between the stitches,

 I space mine about 1/8″ apart for a tight, rope-like effect or 1/4″ for a looser, more decorative look. It depends on the vibe I’m going for. I maintain this space for the whipped chain stitch pattern, too.

Ready for the Next Twist

Twisted Chain Stitch Embroidery

Love it so much that I even make some embroidery with it. Here is how it looks,

Twisted Chain Stitch Embroidery

Detached Twisted Chain Stitch

As I told you, there are many forms of this stitch. Detached is one of these forms. If you are a detached chain fan, then you want to love it too. Here is how it works,

  1. Bring the needle up, then take it down to the side to form a loop. Like you do for double chain stitch.
  2. Come up ahead, and make sure the needle passes on top of the loop as you pull through.
Detached Twisted Chain Stitch
  1. The loop will twist as you pull—giving it that signature twisted look.
    Repeat each stitch separately for neat little ribbon loops!

It looks so good, right? It sure does. I love using this stitch to create petals, scattered floral textures, or even fill in backgrounds with flair. It’s delicate, dimensional, and just plain fun.

Alternating Twisted Chain Stitch

Alternating is another version of this stitch. In this version, the twisted loops are placed on alternating sides of the stitch line, giving it a balanced, eye-catching pattern.

Alternating Twisted Chain Stitch

The charm of this stitch lies in its zigzag flow, where each loop “leans” to the opposite side, creating movement and texture across the fabric.

Here is how it’s done,

  1. I bring my needle up on the stitch line—my anchor point.
  2. Next, I go down into the fabric just to the right of the line, forming a slight diagonal slant.
  3. I bring the needle back up on the line a little ahead, then wrap my thread from right to left over the needle and pull through to form the loop.
  4. I pull the thread snug to shape the loop, then make a tiny stitch into the loop to hold it in place.

Now, I repeat the motion. But this time, I stitched into the left side of the line. It’s the same idea, just mirrored.

  1. I return the needle on the line, wrap the thread from left to right, and pull through to create a loop on the opposite side.
  2. Once the loop lays perfectly, I make a short holding stitch over the loop to anchor it.
  3. I keep going—right side, left side, right, left—wrapping and stitching. The flow is rhythmic and looks so pretty!
  4. To finish, I make a short stitch over the final loop and weave the thread at the back. This doesn’t leave much bulk, so I secure it with two tiny knots.

Read chain stitch vs lock stitch if you ever feel confused between both stitches.

Frequently Asked Questions

How To Keep Chain Stitch From Twisting?

To prevent your chain stitch from twisting, ensure the loop lies flat before pulling the thread through completely. Always wrap the thread consistently in the same direction (usually over the needle) and keep even tension—not too tight or loose. Using a hoop can also help keep the fabric taut, preventing the thread from twisting or knotting unintentionally.

Is Twisted Chain Stitch Hard To Learn?

Not at all! You’ll quickly pick up the twisted variation if you’re comfortable with the basic chain stitch. It just requires a slight change in the needle movement and thread wrapping.

What Kind Of Needle Should I Use?

Use a sharp embroidery needle (size 6–10, depending on fabric and thread thickness). A needle with a sharp point helps you control the twist and pierce fabric easily.

Which Fabrics Are Best For Twisted Chain Stitch?

Tightly woven fabrics like cotton, linen, and evenweave work great. Avoid very loose or stretchy fabrics, as they can distort the stitch.

Conclusion

Honestly, I didn’t expect to enjoy twisted chain stitch as much as I do now. At first, it looked a little tricky, but once I got into the rhythm, it felt really smooth—and super satisfying.

It’s one of those stitches that adds a little extra charm without too much fuss. If you haven’t tried it yet, give it a go—you might end up loving it as much as I do!

Maisha Soumee

Maisha Soumee

Hi there! I’m Maisha Soumee, the proud torchbearer of our family’s sewing legacy and the driving force behind this website. With Grandma Manha’s teachings as my foundation, I’m honored to continue the tradition of craftsmanship and creativity. As a passionate seamstress, I’m dedicated to sharing the joy of sewing with you, our valued community.

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