It started with a rip right on the knee of my favorite jeans. You know, the kind, perfectly broken in, just the right fit, and way too loved to toss. 😒
At first, I thought about patching them.
But then I remembered a darning technique I’d wanted to try: twill darning. I grabbed a matching thread from my sewing kit and got to work. The technique is easy, too. Basically,
T. Darning
To do twill darning by hand, weave threads diagonally in a crisscross pattern, mimicking the twill weave while carefully reinforcing the damaged area.
When I finished the visible mending, I couldn’t believe my jeans didn’t just look fixed. They looked designer. It was like breathing new life into them. That’s when I knew I gotta share this with my sewinginspo readers. So here I am! 😜
At a glance,
- Twill darning mimics the diagonal weave pattern of twill fabric, creating a seamless and decorative repair.

- The darning loom helps hold the fabric taut, making the process easier and more precise.
- Twill Darning adds a stylish touch to your clothes while covering up tears or damage.
- You can repair any fabric with the proper techniques and give it a fresh look.
Table of Contents
First Of All, What Is Twill Darning?
Twill darning is a stitch miming the diagonal weave pattern of twill, a standard textile structure. This is kinda like surface darn but with a different pattern.
Unlike plain darning, which typically involves straight, grid-like stitches, twill darning follows a diagonal or herringbone-like pattern to blend seamlessly into twill fabrics like denim.
How does it look? Well,
Twill darning can blend into the fabric thanks to its diagonal stitch pattern that mimics the twill weave, like what you’d see on denim.
The stitches run at an angle, forming neat, staggered rows that align beautifully with the fabric’s texture. If you use matching thread, the repair can look almost invisible, as if it were part of the original design.
So basically, it is a mending with a decorative look.
Well, Then What Is The Difference Between Twill And Normal Weave?
When I first started getting into fabrics, I didn’t quite understand the difference between twill and normal weave.
To be honest, I just assumed they were the same! But once I looked closer, I realized there’s a big distinction.
Normal weave, also called plain weave, is super simple. The threads go over and under one another. It creates this balanced grid pattern that feels smooth and flat on both sides.
It’s great for lighter fabrics, like cotton shirts, but it can wrinkle a bit too quickly. The standard weave technique is usually used in invisible darn stitches.
Twill, on the other hand,
It is more complex and interesting. Instead of going over and under, the threads shift diagonally, creating those signature diagonal lines or “wales.”
That’s why denim and chinos have a rich, textured look and feel. Twill is not just pretty, though it’s more challenging, too. The way the threads are woven makes it more durable.
So, The difference between twill and normal weave lies in their structure, appearance, and durability.
Twill Darning Tutorial
Now, enough with the introduction, let’s get into the process. It’s such a cool way to fix a tear and make your clothes look stylish and unique. Grab your darning loom and some thread, and let’s get started.
Start by placing the damaged area on a flat surface. If you have a darning mushroom or egg, slip it underneath the fabric to support and tighten the area.
Some even use Darning Ball, But I’m using Darning Loom. Cause it can hold the damaged area tightly, and the loom part can have the thread so I can make the twirling part gracefully.
I put the plate part under the jean’s damaged part and the loom part above & then locked it with the rubber. Like this, 👇
Everything set?
Great. Now thread the darning needle and push it below the damage to anchor the thread.
Then grab the thread and lock it in the darning lomb.
Take the thread in a cross shape and push the needle in the bellow line, grabbing a few threads of fabric. Keep repeating this until the thread covers the whole damaged area.
Like this, doesn’t it look like a guitar? 🎸
It sure does 😍Here comes the fun part! I start weaving diagonal stitches over the vertical ones, following the natural grid of the loom.
I just go over and under, over and under with the needle. Keep repeating this until it covers the whole area. And it’s best if you leave no gap between them. Cause the whole point is to hide the damaged part.
No, leaving gaps doesn’t do that, right? So keep the stitches close to each other. It’ll create a fancy pattern, so let’s cover the part.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I Use A Darning Loom For Other Types Of Fabric?
Yes, you can! While darning looms are often used for denim and other heavier fabrics, they can also be used for lighter materials like cotton or linen. Just make sure to adjust your stitch tension accordingly for different fabric types.
How Do I Prevent The Darning Stitches From Being Too Bulky?
To avoid bulky stitches, use a thinner thread and try to keep your stitches close together without over-stitching. You can also opt for a matching thread color so the repair blends seamlessly into the fabric.
Closing
With just a little time and the right tools, you can quickly turn a tear into a stylish repair that adds character to your clothes. Twill darning with a loom is a simple way to give your favourite pieces a new life while showcasing your creative side. Happy mending!If you want to learn more about stitching, then check out our sewing book.
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